Dogs – Jamestown Pet & Livestock Sitting

How to Prevent Heat Stroke in Dogs

August 29, 2022July 26, 2022 by Jamestown Pet

Tips

Hot summer weather can be more dangerous to dogs than many pet owners realize. When a dog’s internal temperature is raised too high (generally about 106°F or 41°C), they can suffer a potentially fatal heat stroke. To keep your dog cool, make sure that they are prepared for hot weather with plenty of water and shade. If you are walking your dog, you may want to switch your usual path for a cooler, shadier trail. Driving with dogs presents its own risks, and whether you are going to the store or on a long-distance road trip, you should make sure your dog has what they need for the journey. Never leave a dog in a car alone.

Cooling Down Your Dog

Trim but do not shave their coat. Dogs’ fur is designed not only to keep them warm but to protect their skin from the sun. Some breeds have heavier coats than others, and you may want to take them to a dog groomer to have their coat trimmed for the summer months. That said, do not shave your dog, or you may leave them at risk for sunburn and overheating.

Leave a water bowl outside. If you have a backyard where your dog runs free, you should leave out a full bowl of water when they are running around in the heat. Refill this bowl every time your dog goes outside to make sure that it is cool and fresh.

Give dogs plenty of shade. Dogs will need shady areas to rest while they are outside so that they do not overheat. If you have a backyard, you might want to provide your dog with an area of shade, either by giving them a dog house, an umbrella, or by planting trees.If you are planning on taking your dog to the beach, be aware that there might not be much shade available. Sand can also become hot, burning your dog’s paws.

Avoid tethering your dog outside for long periods of time. Some dogs are kept outside tied to a tree or post. Others might wait outside while their owner goes into a shop. Either way, in the summertime, it is inadvisable to leave your dog tethered for more than fifteen minutes. If you need to go shopping, leave the dog at home

Cool down the dog if they exhibit signs of heatstroke. Symptoms of heat stroke include heavy panting, difficulty breathing, loss of energy, drooling, and any obvious weakness or stumbling.

If your dog is starting to show these signs, you can hose them down with cool (but not cold) water. If you do not have a hose, you can put your dog in the shower. As you do this, check the dog’s rectal temperature every 30-60 seconds until the temperature is down to 103.5°F / 39.8°C. The goal is to slowly bring the dog’s temperature down. You should have the dog checked out by a veterinarian.

You can also soak rags or wash cloths in cool water.
Place these inside of the dog’s thighs.
Do not use cold water, ice packs, or iced water.
These can actually prevent the dog from cooling down.
If you do not have a thermometer or cool water available to you, go directly to the vet.

Walking and Exercising With Your Dog

Go out during the cooler hours. The early morning and late evening hours will be much cooler than the middle of the day. It is recommend to walk your dog during these hours to avoid the worst of the heat.

Walk your dog on soft ground. Asphalt can become dangerously hot during the summer, burning your dog’s paws and increasing their temperature. Instead of walking on sidewalks or blacktop, try to find dirt trails or grassy areas where you can walk your dog.

Carry a collapsible water dish. You will need to give your dog plenty of water while you walk. Plan on taking frequent breaks so that your dog can re-hydrate. Inflatable water bowls fold up easily in a backpack or pocket, and they allow your dog to drink water easily. Pour water from a bottle into the bowl so that your dog can drink at their leisure.

Rest in shady areas. If your dog starts panting heavily or stumbling, they need to rest. These may be signs of oncoming heatstroke. Find a cool, shaded area to let your dog cool off for a few minutes. Do not stop out in middle of hot asphalt or in direct sunlight. These can cause your dog’s temperature to spike.

Watch for signs of overheating. Keep an eye on your dog for signs of heatstroke. If your pet begins to tire or pant heavily, stop in a shady spot and give them some water. If symptoms don’t subside, take them directly home and seek veterinary care.

Crate Training Your Dog

March 26, 2021March 25, 2021 by Jamestown Pet

Understand the value of crate training. You might think it cruel to pen a dog up in a crate for hours at a time. But dogs are instinctively den animals, so confined spaces are not as oppressive to them as they are to us. In fact, crate trained dogs will seek out their crates as a source of comfort.

Crate training is a useful way to manage your dog’s behavior when he’s unsupervised for extended periods of time.
For example, many owners crate their dogs when they go to sleep or leave the house.

Begin crate training young. Although older dogs can be taught to enjoy their crates as well, it’s easier to train a young dog.

If your puppy is a large breed, don’t train him in a large crate that you think he’ll grow into.
Dogs won’t relieve themselves where they sleep or relax, so you need the crate to be appropriately sized.
If you use a crate that’s too large, he might urinate in the far corner of it because he has so much space.

Make the crate an inviting space.^[12] Don’t isolate him in the crate immediately by locking the door the first time you get him to enter it. You want him to create a positive association with the crate, so that he enjoys his time in there.

When you begin the crate training process, place the crate somewhere the household gathers. The idea is to make the crate part of the social scene rather than a place of isolation.
Place a soft blanket and some of your dog’s favorite toys inside the crate.

Encourage him to enter the crate. Once you’ve made the crate an inviting space, use treats to lure him inside. At first, place some outside the door so he can explore the exterior of the crate. Then, place treats just inside the door, so he will poke his head in to retrieve them. As he grows more comfortable, place the treats further and further inside the crate.

Do this until your dog enters the crate without hesitation.
Always speak in your “happy voice” when acclimating your dog to the crate.

Feed the dog in his crate. Once he’s comfortable entering the crate for treats, reinforce the positive association with mealtime.

Place his dog bowl wherever he’s comfortable eating. If he’s still a little anxious, you might have to place it right by the door.
As he grows more comfortable over time, place the dog bowl further back into the cage.

Begin closing the door behind him. With treats and feeding, you’ll find that your dog is growing more acclimated to being in the crate. He still needs to learn how to cope with the door being closed.

Begin closing the door at mealtime, when the dog too distracted by his food to notice what’s going on at first.
Close the door for very short periods, lengthening the time as the dog grows more comfortable.

Don’t reward the dog for whining. When a puppy whines, it may be adorable and heartbreaking, but when a grown dog whines, it can drive you nuts. If your puppy whines inconsolably, you may have left him inside the crate for too long. However, you cannot release him from the crate until the whining stops. Remember — every reward you give reinforces the dog’s last behavior, which was whining in this case.

Instead, release the dog once he’s stopped whining.
The next time you close the door on the crate, leave him in for a shorter period of time.

Comfort your dog during long crate sessions. If your puppy cries when he’s alone in the crate, bring the crate into your bedroom at night. Have a tick tock clock or white noise machine to help the puppy get to sleep. Make sure that they have already eliminated outside and don’t need to urinate or defecate.

Young puppies should be crated in your room at night so that you can hear them tell you they need to go out in the middle of the night. Otherwise, they will be forced to mess in the crate.

Sources:

How to Exercise a Dog with Arthritis

March 22, 2021March 12, 2021 by Jamestown Pet

Introducing Low Impact Exercises

Exercise is part of a healthy and happy dog’s life. However, as dogs age, 65% of them will develop arthritis. As a condition that causes inflammation of the joints, arthritis can make even simple walks and other normal activities painful. You can choose to exercise your dog with low impact workouts that are less painful for their joints.^[1]

Identify the right kind of exercise for your arthritic dog. The least pain-inducing exercises for dogs with arthritis are low impact and high resistance exercises. Low impact exercises lessen the weight that is applied to the joints, making them more comfortable for dogs with joint pain. High resistance exercises, on the other hand, are exercises that provide high resistance to the muscles being exercised, making them more developed and larger without stressing the joints.

Examples of low impact and high resistance exercises include swimming and walking on an underwater treadmill. In an underwater treadmill exercise, the dog is placed on a treadmill that is enclosed in a glass container that can be filled up with water.

Exercise your dog on an underwater treadmill. Underwater treadmills are a great way to exercise dogs with arthritis dogs, but they are often cost prohibitive for most owners.^[2] Ask your vet about local facilities or clinics that offer underwater treadmills or hydrotherapy exercises for dogs. Most large animal clinics or hospitals offer this service.Ideally, you can exercise your dog on an underwater treadmill every day.

Start with short walks that last about 10 minutes and gradually increase their duration as your dog gets used to the exercise. As your dog gets stronger, they can walk for longer periods of time.
Underwater treadmills have adjustable speeds and have water temperature controls, because heat increases blood circulation, which reduces joint swelling and pain.^[3]

Take your dog swimming. Swimming is a great low impact way to exercise your pup.^[4]Take your dog to a lake, pond, or dog-friendly pool for a swim. You can let them swim on their own accord or throw a buoyant toy for them to retrieve. ^[5]

If your dog isn’t a strong swimmer, consider purchasing a doggie life vest to help keep them buoyant. You can teach them to swim with or without a doggie life vest.

Go for a gentle walk. Take your pet for a short walk to get them moving. Start off with short walks, and gradually increase their length over time if your dog isn’t in pain. Start off with walks that are 10-15 minutes long once or twice a day. Softer surfaces, like grass or even carpeted floors, are better than rough surfaces like concrete. You also want to walk them on flat areas without any hills.^[6]

Do not run or jog with your arthritic dog.
Avoid taking them on walks in the early morning or at night since colder temperatures can exacerbate joint pain.

Warming Up and Cooling Down Your Dog for Exercise

Warm up your arthritic dog by performing range of motion exercises. Range of motion exercises gently move certain joints, like an elbow or hip, through the joint’s entire range. This range runs from flexion (bent) to extension (straightened out). To perform a range of motion exercise, lay down your dog on their side on a mattress or blanket, with the limb you intend to exercise positioned towards you.^[7]

With one hand, support the limb you intend to exercise below and above the joint at a natural position so that your dog is comfortable and without pain.
Flex the limb as slowly as possible until it reaches a natural flexed position that the dog is comfortable with (stop if the dog feels pain) and hold it in this position for 3 to 5 seconds.
After flexing the limb, slowly or gently return it to its original position and extend it all the way outwards. Repeat the gentle flexion and extension exercise 10 to 15 times.^[8]

Massage their joints. A gentle joint massage for five to ten minutes every day can help to relieve some of their arthritis pain. Massage helps to keep the joints flexible and warm up muscles prior to exercise. Start by petting the areas around their joints to warm up the tissue. Then, place your hand over the area and start making small, circular motions while gently compressing the muscle. Finish by petting the area again to soothe the nerves.^[9]

Do not massage joints that are currently aggravated. If your dog winces or seems to be in pain, stop massaging that area immediately.
This is also a great way to bond with your dog.

Dry your dog. After exercising your dog on the underwater treadmill or by swimming, thoroughly dry your dog using soft towels so that your dog will not be chilly. Cold temperatures can decrease blood circulation and cause joint pain. If you opted to take them for a walk, be sure to warm them up if you’ve been in damp or cool weather.

Do cool down exercises with your dog. After exercise, your dog’s muscles need to be cooled down. Perform the same range of motion exercises by repeating the same procedures that you performed when warming your dog up.

Perform these exercises in a warm area or inside so your dog will be more comfortable.

Provide a warm resting environment for your dog. Warm temperatures can help to increase blood circulation, thereby reducing pain and inflammation. On the other hand, cold temperatures can exacerbate symptoms of arthritis. After you’ve had an opportunity to exercise your pup, make sure they have a warm and comfortable area to rest in.

Provide your dog with a thick, soft dog bed to sleep on. There are also heated dog beds that you can purchase for your arthritic dog.

Making Exercise More Comfortable

Help them maintain a healthy weight. Extra weight puts unnecessary stress on your dog’s already damaged joints. By keeping them at a healthy weight, you can help to eliminate this additional source of stress and pain. Because your dog cannot exercise like they would if they didn’t have arthritis, maintaining a healthy diet is your best bet to keep them at a healthy weight.^[10]

Dogs that are a healthy weight will also have an easier time exercising than will an overweight dog.
A healthy diet should provide a balance of protein, carbohydrates, and fats. Avoid feeding your dog table scraps, since human food is often more calorically dense. Limit the number of treats you give your pet.

Exercise on a soft surface, if possible. While this might not always be possible, try to exercise your dog on soft surfaces whenever possible. Soft surfaces, like grass, put less stress on your dog’s joints than hard surfaces, like asphalt.^[11]

Give your dog vet-prescribed pain medication. If your dog is in a lot of pain, talk to your vet about what medications might be right for your dog. Your vet will most likely prescribe an NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug) that will help to combat pain and reduce swelling. Pain management medications can make exercise much more comfortable for your dog.^[12]

These medications are prescription only; do not self-medicate your dog.

Supplement your dog’s diet with vitamin C. Vitamin C has been found to help improve joint mobility in dogs. It can also help prevent further joint damage in some dogs. When dogs are stressed, especially due to physical stress caused by conditions like arthritis, they can be prone to a Vitamin C deficiency.^[13]

Talk to your vet about Vitamin C supplements to see if they think it would help your dog.^[14]

Consider giving your dog additional medications. Certain medications can help prevent further joint damage by maintaining joint health. Glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate both help to repair connective tissue and keep already existing cartilage healthy. Arthritis will degrade your dog’s joints, but these medicines can help to slow this process.^[15]

Talk to your vet before you give your dog any additional supplements or medications.
These medicines will not repair any structural damage caused by arthritis, like torn cartilage or advanced scar tissue. These can only be corrected through surgery.^[16]

Warnings

Arthritis is a progressive condition. There may come a time when your dog’s condition has progressed to a point where they are in severe pain. They may no longer be able to continue exercising, so speak with your veterinarian when their arthritis reaches an advanced stage.
Exercise within your pet’s capabilities. Never over-exert your pet for the sake of exercise.
Never let your dog swim without your close supervision.

How to Give Your Large Dog Enough Exercise

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Exercise is an important component of a dog’s health and happiness. Dogs are instinctively programmed to “work” through physical activity.^[1] How much exercise dogs need depends on different factors, including their size. Larger dogs need more physical activity every day to ward off boredom and frustration, which can lead to destructive behaviors. Exercising your large dog for long enough every day also promotes its overall health.^[2] You can give your large dog enough exercise by figuring out its specific physical activity needs and incorporating physical activity throughout the day.

Figuring Out Your Dog’s Exercise Needs

Recognize basic needs for every dog. A walk or two around the neighborhood isn’t usually enough exercise for dogs. Most dogs need 30-60 minutes of exercise every day.^[3] Your dog can get this exercises through a variety of outdoor and indoor activities. These might include:

Walking
Running
Swimming
Climbing and/ or running up stairs
Throwing toys
Obstacle courses^[4]

Establish how much exercise your large dog needs. The amount of exercise your large dog needs depends in part on its breed. Certain breeds used for hunting or herding will need the most exercise, whereas a short-nosed breed such as a boxer will need less. If your dog is in ill health, speak to its vet about appropriate amounts of exercise.^[5]

Exercise breeds in hunting, working, or herding groups will need at least 30 minutes of vigorous exercise and 1-2 hours of activity every day. Breeds in this group include Labrador retrievers, hounds, collies and shepherds. Other dogs that need this much exercise are pointers and spaniels.^[6]
Be aware that some large dog breeds won’t need much exercise. Aim to get the following breeds 30-60 minutes of activity each day: bulldogs, bull mastiffs, Great Danes, greyhounds, and Old English sheepdogs. In some cases, your dog’s personality and ability may warrant more or less.
Recognize that it can be difficult to gauge how much exercise mixed breeds need. If you have an idea of what heritage your dog has, follow exercise guidelines for that breed. If you don’t, consider asking your vet what breed the dog may be and adjust your exercise program accordingly.

Let your dog guide you. Dogs are very sensitive animals and can provide signals about their needs. This is true for exercise, too. Paying attention to your dog’s behavior can also inform you about if it needs more exercise or activity or is content to get some rest.^[7] Some signs your dog may want more exercise include:

Restlessness
Pacing around
Racing through the house^[8]
Rough play
Excited nipping or biting
Digging
Scratching
Destructive chewing

Incorporating Physical Activity Throughout the Day

Schedule daily exercise and activity. Dogs require physical activity as a result of their evolutionary development as pack and work animals.^[9] Your large dog may need up to 2 ½ hours of exercise and activity every day, which can be a lot if you have a busy schedule. Having a set daily schedule for exercising can ensure that your dog gets enough physical activity to maintain its health and happiness. The routine helps your dog anticipate it and may minimize unwanted behaviors.^[10]

Fix a specific time each day to get 30 minutes of vigorous activity with your large dog. For example, you could schedule a 30-minute run together in the mornings before work or school. If you’re not a runner, consider taking your dog to the yard, a field, or dog park for 30 minutes. Do an activity that is vigorous for your dog but easy on you such as fetching or blowing bubbles specifically designed for dogs.^[11]
Aim for a long walk of about an hour in addition to the vigorous exercise. You can also break this into two 30-minute walks.
Adjust your dog’s exercise routine as necessary. For example, if you have an early meeting, see if you can sneak out to run the dog at lunch.

Do activities your dog—and you— enjoy. Every dog has a personality. You may recognize that your dog plays harder or is happier after certain types of exercise. You may enjoy these, too. Incorporate activities that you and your dog love as much as you are able. This can make it easier to ensure your large dog gets enough exercise and can strengthen your bond.^[12]

Set aside at least one day to do an activity you and your dog both love but may not be possible every day. For example, if you have work or school, you may have off weekends. On a Saturday or Sunday, you can let your dog run as you ride your bike or go for a nature hike.

Follow your dog on walks. Regular walks are important to a dog’s health and happiness. One way to make them fun is going for brisk walks where you follow your dog on a lead or leash. This can fulfill your dog’s need for exercise and to travel and explore.^[13]

Follow your large dog for a brisk 30-40 minute walk at least once a day and ideally twice. This can ensure your dog’s gets enough exercise and brain releases feel-good hormones.
Allow your dog to sniff around and decide where to go as long as it is not pulling on the leash. Doing so may promote dominance and bad leash manners. Guide the dog with verbal commands if it starts to pull at the leash. A gentle “This way, Spot” gives your dog the sense that it can explore while maintaining your authority.

Try “doggy and me” exercises. If you’re very active physically, the easiest way to give your large dog enough exercise is doing activities together. This can ensure that both you and your dog stay fit and happy. Some exercises you can do together include:^[14]

Running
Inline skating
Bicycling
Hiking^[15]
Swimming^[16]
Jumping over obstacles^[17]

Take your dog to the park. Many areas have designated dog parks that allow off-leash activity for dogs. This can be a great way for your large dog to get its daily recommended exercise as well as romp around with other dogs.^[18]

Watch your dog while you’re at the park, which can cue you into when your dog is tired. This is also important because not all dogs play nicely with one another.

Stimulate indoor exercise. If the weather is extremely cold or hot, it may not be safe for your dog to exercise outside.^[19] You may be injured and unable to go outside. Even if outdoor exercise isn’t an option, you can ensure your large dog gets enough activity every day with indoor activities. The following activities can provide your large dog its recommended daily exercise:^[20]

Running up the stairs with your dog
Playing fetch
Hiding treats around the house
Playing keep away
Kicking around dog exercise balls^[21]
Setting up an obstacle course

Provide toys while you’re gone. If you work or attend school, you may need to leave your dog at home. Your dog will still need activity during this time. Leaving toys for your large dog can help it get enough exercise. They can also provide entertainment until you get home. Consider providing the following toys to your dog:^[22]

Hard rubber toys for chewing and carrying around
Rope toys
Balls
“Busy box” toys with hiding places for snacks
Soft, stuffed and/or squeaky toys
Dirty laundry that smells like you

Consider doggy-day care or a walker. You may find that your dog needs more exercise that your schedule permits. If this is the case, consider taking your dog to doggy day care or hiring a professional dog walker. These can fill in where you can’t. A day care or walker will exercise both your dog’s body and mind.^[23]

Recognize your dog should come home worn out and happy from a day care or dog walker.

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Teaching “Sit”, “Lie Down”, “Wait”, and “Stand”

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Teaching the “Sit”

Get your dog into a standing position. The purpose of the “sit” is get your dog to transition from standing to sitting, not just continue sitting. Walk into your dog or step away from him to get him into a standing position.

Position yourself in his line of sight. Stand directly in front of the dog so that his attention is focused on you. Let him see that you have a treat in your hand.

Focus the dog’s attention on the treat. Begin with the treat held down at your side. Raise that hand in front of the dog’s nose to let him get the scent, then to above his head level.

When you hold the treat above the dog’s head, most dogs will naturally sit to get a better view of it.

Give him an immediate treat and praise. Follow the routine of clicker-treat/praise or just treat and praise. Say “good sit” when he’s performing the behavior you are practicing. He may be slow at first, but more treats and praise will speed up his response.

Make sure that you do not praise him until his butt touches the ground. If you praise halfway through the sit, the dog will think that is what you want.
Also, make sure that you do not praise him for getting back up, or you will get that behavior instead of the sit.

If your dog does not sit with the treat technique, you can use your leash and collar. Stand next to the dog, facing the same direction as him. Place a little backward pressure on the collar to encourage a sit.

You may even need to encourage the sit by adding a little gentle scoop behind the dog’s hind legs. Gently lean the dog backward with the help of the collar while doing this.
As soon as he sits, give him immediate praise and reward.

Don’t repeat the command. You want the dog to respond on the first utterance, not the second, third, or fourth. If the dog does not perform the behavior within 2 seconds of your command, reinforce the command with the help of your leash.

When you begin training a dog, never give a command that you are not in a position to reinforce. Otherwise, you risk training the dog to ignore you because there is no follow through from your end and the commands have no meaning.
Create a positive meaning for the dog with praise and consistency.^[7]

Praise natural sitting behavior. Look for times throughout the day when your dog just sits on his own. Praise that behavior, and pretty soon you’ll have a dog that sits for attention instead of jumping or barking at you.

Teaching Your Dog to Lie Down

Get your dog’s attention. Get some food treats or a toy and find your dog. Hold the toy or treat in view so he focuses on you.

Use the treat or toy to encourage your dog to lie down. Do this by moving the toy or treat onto the ground in front of the dog, between his front legs. His head should follow it, and his body should follow shortly thereafter.

Give immediate praise. When the dog’s stomach is on the ground, lavish him with praise and give him the treat or toy. Be accurate with your praise, too. If you praise him halfway down or up, that is the behavior you will get.

Increase your distance. Once he’s learned the behavior with the promise of a treat below him, move a little farther away. The hand signal for “down” will become your flat hand — palm down — moving in a downward direction from in front of your waist to your side.

As the dog gets more consistent with the “down” behavior, add a verbal “down” or “lie down” command.
Always praise him immediately when his belly is on the ground.
Dogs read body language well and learn hand signals quite quickly.

Lengthen the “down.” As he gets more reliable with “down,” pause a few seconds before praising and treating to encourage him to hold the position.

If he pops up to get the treat, do not give it to him, or you will be rewarding the last behavior he did before the treat.
Just start again, and the dog will understand that you want him all the way down on the ground, as long as you are consistent.

Don’t lean over your dog. Once your dog has caught onto the command, stand up straight when giving it. If you loom over him, you’ll have a dog that only lays down when you are leaning over him. You want to work on being able to get your dog to lie down from across the room, eventually.

Training Your Dog to “Wait” at Doorways

Begin doorway “wait”-training early. Teaching a dog to respect the threshold is important. You do not want a dog that runs out the door every time it opens — that could be dangerous for him. Doorway training doesn’t need to happen every single time you go through a doorway. But you should make the most of your training opportunities early in your puppy’s life.

Place the dog on a leash. You should have him on a short leash that allows you to change his direction from a close distance.

Walk to the door. Bring the dog along with you on his leash.

Give a “wait” command before stepping through. If your dog moves to follow you when you step through the door, use the leash to stop his forward movement. Try again.

Praise him when he waits. When he realizes that you want him to stay in the door instead of walking through it with you, lavish him with praise and rewards for the “good wait.”

Teach him to sit in the threshold. If the door is closed, you can even teach your dog to sit as soon as you place your hand on the doorknob. He’ll then wait while the door is opened, and not cross the threshold until you release him. This training should be done on leash at the beginning, for his safety.

Give a separate command to encourage him through the doorway. You might use a “come” or a “free.” Whatever command you use, it should be the only thing that allows your dog to exit your home.

Increase the distance. Practice leaving the dog at the threshold and do something on the other side. You might get the mail or take out the trash before you return and praise him. The idea is that you do not always call him across the threshold to meet you. You can also come back to him.

Teaching the “Stand”

Understand the value of the “stand” command. The value of the “sit” and “wait” seem obvious, but you may not understand at first why the “stand” is an important skill to teach your dog. You’ll won’t use the “stand” every day, but you’ll need it throughout the dog’s life. For example, a dog who can stay calmly in a “stand” is the ideal patient at a vet clinic or client at a groomer’s.

Prepare for the training session. Grab his favorite toy or prepare a handful of treats to both focus your dog’s attention and reward him for learning the command. Put the dog in a starting “down” or “lie down” position when working with the “stand” command. He should move from lying down to standing up to get his toy or treats.

Focus the dog’s attention. You want to coax him into the standing position by having him follow the toy or treat. Hold the toy or treat in front of his face, at nose height.

If he sits, thinking that will earn him a reward, try again, but with the treat or toy slightly lower.

Encourage the dog to follow your hand. Flatten your hand with your palm down. If you’re using a treat, hold it with your thumb against your palm. Start with your hand in front of his nose and move it away a few inches. The idea is that the dog will stand up while following your hand.

You may need to use your other hand to encourage him from underneath his hips to get the idea at first.

Give immediate praise. As soon as he reaches the standing position, praise and treat. Although you haven’t yet started using the verbal “stand” command, you can use it in your praise: “good stand!”

Add the verbal “stand” command. At first, you will work only on getting your dog to stand by following the hand that holds his toy or treat. When he’s mastered that concept, begin incorporating the “stand” command into the training sessions.

Combine the “stand” with other commands. There are many ways to combine commands. After getting your dog to “stand,” you might add a “wait” or “stay” command if you want the dog to stand for longer periods of time. You can also follow with a “sit” or “down” to do some “doggy drills,” and gradually increase the distance between you and the dog. Eventually, you’ll have your dog performing these commands from across the room.

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Teaching the “Take” and “Drop It” Commands

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Understand the command. The “take” is used whenever you want the dog to take something you offer into his mouth.

Give your dog a toy to play with. Give him the verbal command “take” as you do so. As he takes the toy in his mouth, reward him for the behavior with praise. (Plus, he gets to play with the toy!)

Transition to less rewarding objects. It’s easy for a dog to learn “take” when the object is so much fun! When he’s mastered the connection between command and behavior, move on to boring objects. Examples might include newspapers, light bags, or anything else you might want him to carry.

Pair “take” training with “drop it” training. Once he takes the toy, use the command “drop it” to have the dog release the toy back to you. Give him a treat and praise when he releases the toy, then start again with “take.” You don’t want the dog to think that the fun stops every time he releases the toy.

Do not get into a tugging match with the dog. When you tug, the dog tugs back harder.

Teaching Your Dog Positive Food Behaviors

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Have him wait patiently while you prepare his meal. There’s nothing more annoying than a dog who jumps and barks while you’re trying to prepare his meal. Instead, use the “wait” command he learned in doorway training to have him wait outside the threshold of the room where he’s fed.

When you’re ready, have your dog work for his food by commanding the dog “sit” and “stay” while you place the food on the ground.^[8]
Stand up and wait a few breaths before giving your release word. You can use “free” or you can create a new command for feeding time like “get your food” or “yummy.” Try to choose something you wouldn’t accidentally say to other people, such as “time to eat,” or, “let’s eat,” as this might falsely cue your dog that it’s time for his dinner.
Eventually, he will sit on his own as soon as he sees his feeding bowl.

Hand feed your dog. At meal time, start feeding your dog out of your hand. Then use your hands to put the rest of the food in the bowl. This will put your scent on your dog’s bowl and also normalize having your hands around their bowl and food. This should help fix or prevent any food aggression tendencies.^[9]

Teach your dog to “leave it.” Teaching your dog to move his nose away from food and other items can be beneficial in a number of situations, including when food is accidentally dropped on the floor during family dinner or when your dog seems interested in picking up something potentially harmful during a walk. To teach this command, do the following:

Stage one: Hold a treat in your closed hand. The dog will probably lick, sniff, and paw at your hand in an attempt to get to the treat. Eventually, when the dog moves his nose away, praise him and give him the treat.
Stage two: Add in the words “leave it.” Say these words when your dog decides to move his nose away.
Stage three: Hold one treat in your palm in front of the dog and one behind you in the other hand. Instruct your dog to “leave it.” If the dog gets too close to the treat, make a fist to hide the treat and say “no” or “uh-oh” to show the dog that he won’t be rewarded or noncompliance. When he obeys the “leave it” command, give him the treat that’s behind your back.
Stage four: Place the treat on the floor. Move the treat from your palm to the floor. Continue to reward your dog with the treat you have behind your back.
Stage five: Put your dog’s leash on and walk past the treat on the floor. Command him to “leave it” without jerking the leash. If he eats the treat, go back to an earlier stage.
Stage six: Start using the “leave it” command outside of your home.^[10]

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Tips & Warnings of Dog Training

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Tips

Obedience training really is not for the dog… it’s for YOU. This training teaches you how to communicate what you want your dog to do in a way that he understands. If you send your dog to someone else to train them, they learn to work with that person, not you. Take the time to learn how to train your dog, don’t pass the responsibility off to someone else. In some cases, you may need to have your dog learn the basics from someone else. But then, you should have the trainer work with you AND the dog together. This will make sure that you have the ability to continue the training at home. Check back in with the trainer for “tune up” sessions for you and your dog to keep everyone on track.^[13]
Remember that every dog is different. One dog might learn at a slower pace than another dog, and that’s okay. There is no such thing as an untrainable dog!
Remember that dogs do not communicate the same way humans do.
Do not let your dog “lean” on you either when you are standing up or sitting down. This is not a sign that they like you. This is a sign of dominance. The dog is encroaching into your space. You are the leader. Stand up and let your knee or foot nudge them out of your space. Praise the dog for getting up. Give the dog a command to lay down on their bed or go to their crate if you need to manage your personal space more effectively.
If using hand signals, be sure they are unique and distinct for the dog to see and differentiate. There are standard dog training signals used for basic commands like “sit,” “stay,” etc. If you are unsure, ask your trainer or look online or in a book for a clearer picture of the body language to use.
Be consistent. Make sure the command and hand signal use is the same each time.
Use a harness instead of a choke chain.
When using voice commands, use a firm voice. You mean for this dog to sit, so speak with meaning. Do not continue to repeat a command over and over again hoping the dog will eventually perform the command. Reinforce the command within two to three seconds if the command is not done and then praise the dog. You don’t want to be one of those people you see repeating “sit” 20 or so times until the dog sits. You want a sit on the first command, not the twentieth.
Do not allow your dog to bite you, even playfully. This sets a bad precedent and it will be difficult for you to break them of this habit. Dangerous, aggressive dogs will need special training from an experienced dog trainer. In some cases, a veterinary behaviorist will need to become involved. At no time should you take on an aggressive dog without the proper training. It is too dangerous.
If your dog is out of control, another good way to correct the behavior is to isolate them from the rest of the “pack”. Put them in their crate or kennel and ignore them. Isolation from the pack is dog language for “your behavior is unacceptable and we don’t like it.” Your dog will understand the message. They may whine and howl, but you have to ignore it. Think of it as a “time out” for your dog. When they are quiet and settled, let them out of the crate. Don’t forget to keep your dog exercised to help manage their energy level. Playing “fetch” is a great way to get the dog tired.
Praise your dog often and lavishly.
Training dogs requires a large amount of patience. It can be frustrating if you choose a breed wrong for your skill level or lifestyle. If you find you have made a poor choice, ask professionals for guidance. You may need to find a new home for the dog. Call your local rescue organization or veterinarian. Don’t wait until you and the dog have suffered. If you just don’t have the patience, then get yourself some personal one-on-one training from a reputable dog trainer. Nobody is a “born” dog trainer without getting educated.
Don’t be cruel to your dog or hit them. If you strike your dog out of frustration, he will only learn to fear you.
Clean up after your dog if they defecate on someone else’s property or in a public place. Doing this will ensure that others enjoy your dog as much as you do.
When teaching your dog to speak, howling/barking yourself might make your dog bark.
Never throw your dog your dinner scraps when eating. This will make him think you allow him to steal food, and he might take food from strangers. Also, when a dog begs turn away so he knows you don’t tolerate bad behavior. And be sure to treat your dog with love and have fun!

Warnings

Use a collar and leash that is appropriate to your dogs size. Too loose or too tight collars can cause injury.
Having a dog requires almost as much responsibility as having a child. If you’re not ready for that, don’t get a dog until you have done your research, and make adjustments to allow a dog into your life.
Keep regular vet visits and stay up to date on vaccinations. You should also keep current on license requirements, and have your pet spayed or neutered as soon as they are old enough.
Regular exercise for your dog will prevent him from being destructive in your home. Dogs get bored. When they get bored, they find ways to “entertain” themselves. That may include chewing your favorite shoes, destroying furniture, or barking nonstop. Avoid this problem by taking them for regular walks (twice a day is best). And it’s good for you too! “A tired dog is a good dog.” Exercise to the point of being tired is different for each individual.

Additional Resources

Don’t Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor
Getting Started: Clicker Training for Dogs by Karen Pryor
The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller
25 Stupid Mistakes Dog Owners Make by Janine Adams
The Art of Raising a Puppy by the Monks of New Skete
How to be Your Dog’s Best Friend by the Monks of New Skete
The Mentally Sound Dog: How to Shape, Train and Change Canine Behavior by Gail I. Clark

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Teaching Your Dog to “Listen” and “Speak”

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Teaching the “Listen”

Understand the purpose of the “listen” command. Also known as the “watch me” command, the “listen” is one of the first commands you should teach your dog. You’ll use it to get your dog’s attention so you can give him the next command or direction. Some people just use their dog’s name instead of the “listen.” This is especially useful if you have more than one dog. That way, each individual dog will know when you want it to focus on you.

Stand near your dog. Don’t engage with him, though. If he reacts to your presence, stand still and look away until he loses interest.

Say “Listen” in a quiet but firm voice. If you’re using your dog’s name instead of the “listen” or “watch me” commands, say his name instead. The tone and volume should be the same as if you were calling a person’s name to get their attention.

Don’t raise your voice to get his attention. Save the big booming voice for “life saving” situations, like if he escapes his fence or leash. If you rarely raise your voice, you’ll get your dog’s undivided attention when you do need to yell. But if you are always “loud” to your dog, they will ignore that sound and tune it out. Shouting will no longer be regarded as something that commands special attention.

Dogs have excellent hearing — far better than ours. A fun twist on this command is to see how quietly you can whisper and have your dog respond. People will think you are the “dog whisperer” when you can get him to perform commands with hardly a whisper.

Give an immediate reward for the desired response. As soon as your dog stops what he’s doing and looks toward you, praise him and give him a treat. Make the click sound before giving praise or a treat if you’re using clicker training.

Remember that your response must be immediate. The faster you reward him, the better he’ll understand the relationship between command, behavior, and reward.

Discontinue treats eventually. Once he’s mastered the command, you shouldn’t give him treats for performing it; however, you should still use your clicker or give verbal praise.

Weaning the dog off treats is important because he may start to expect treats all the time. You’ll end up with a dog who only performs when you have food.
Praise your dog regularly even after he’s mastered a command, but treat him intermittently. That’s the way to keep it solid in his doggy vocabulary.
Once he’s mastered command, you can use treats to shape the behavior to be faster or more accurate. He will soon realize that the treats come with the command or activity that follows the “listen.”

Teaching the “Speak”

Understand the command. The “speak” command teaches your dog to bark in response to your verbal cue. On its own, this command is something of a novelty. But in combination with the “quiet” command, it can help manage a barking problem in an overly vocal dog.^[11]

Take extreme caution when teaching this command. Inexperienced trainers sometimes find “speak” training spirals out of control. They end up with a dog who barks at them all the time.

Clicker train your dog. “Speak” training requires immediate praise, more so than other commands do. Teach your dog to associate the click sound with a treat by clicking and treating a few times in a row.

Continue this clicker training until your dog sees the click sound as a reward in and of itself. The treat will come later.

Figure out when your dog barks most. This will vary from dog to dog, so you have to observe your specific pet. He might bark most reliably when you withhold a treat, when someone knocks on the door, when someone rings the doorbell, or when someone honks a horn.

Recreate the triggering event. Once you’ve figured out what makes your dog bark, perform that action in front of your dog. The idea is to encourage him to bark on his own, then praise him for the action.

You can see how this might be dangerous in the hands of an inexperienced trainer.
That’s why “speak” training is a little different from the other commands. You’ll incorporate the verbal command from the very beginning. That way, the dog doesn’t think you’re praising him for his natural behavior.

Use the verbal “speak” command from the beginning. As soon as your dog barks for the very first time, give the verbal “speak” command, click, and give him a treat.

The other commands thus far have taught the behavior first, then added a command that preceded the behavior.
However, “speak” training gets out of hand too easily that way. The dog gets rewarded for barking at first.
Thus, it’s better to associate the verbal command with the behavior already in progress. Never reward the dog for barking without the verbal command.

Combine the “speak” with the “quiet” command. If you have a dog who naturally barks too much, you might not think teaching him to “speak” is going to help your situation. However, if you teach him to “speak,” then you can also teach him to “quiet.” While you may not need the “speak” for a dog who barks too much, you definitely need the “quiet.”

Once your dog has mastered the “speak,” begin incorporating “quiet” into your training sessions.
Give the “speak” command.
However, instead of rewarding the “speak” (barking), wait until the dog stops barking.
Give the verbal “quiet” command.
If the dog remains silent, reward the “quiet” (no barking) with a click and a treat.

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How to Teach “Heel” and “Come”

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Teaching the “Heel”

Take your dog on regular walks with a leash. This is important not just for training, but for his physical and mental health. Depending on what breed of dog you have, he may need a lot of exercise to keep him happy and in shape.

Discourage pulling. Most dogs will pull on the leash when they’re learning to take walks. When he starts pulling, stop immediately. Don’t take another step until the dog comes to your side and focuses his attention on you.

Change directions. An even more effective method is to walk in the opposite direction and encourage your dog to come with you. Once he’s caught up, praise and treat him.

Make it fun to be by your side. Your dog’s natural impulse is to chart his own course and investigate his environment. You need to make walking by your side more appealing that that. Use an enthusiastic voice when changing directions, and lavish him with praise when he comes back to your side.

Pair the behavior with a verbal command. Once the dog walks consistently at your side, you can give the behavior a name, like “heel” or “let’s go.”

Teaching the “Come”

Understand the value of the command. The “come” is used whenever you want your dog to come to you. This command is potentially life-saving, as it can prevent your dog from running off if he gets loose.

Prepare your dog for “come” training. You always want to start training indoors (or in your fenced yard) with low distraction. Attach a 6-foot leash to your dog’s collar so that you have a way to keep his attention and prevent him from running away.

Attract your dog’s attention. You want to make him run toward you. You can do this with high-pitched noises associated with play, with a toy, with an excited clap, or just opening your arms. Running a short distance away from him and then stopping can also work, as dogs will naturally start to chase.

Use praise and your “happy voice” to encourage him to move toward you.

Give immediate praise. Sound your clicker, give him praise in your “happy voice,” and give him a treat when your dog reaches your side.

Pair the behavior with the verbal command. As your dog begins to realize he’ll be rewarded for coming to you, start giving the verbal command “come.” When he responds to the command, reinforce it in praise by pairing it with “good”: “good come!”

Move the training to more public spaces. Because the “come” command could save your dog’s life, he must learn to respond to it even when he’s distracted. Move the training sessions from your home or yard to a public park. There are more sights, sounds, and smells demanding his attention there.

Increase the leash length. You began training with a 6-foot leash, but you want your dog to come longer distances than that. Try attaching two leashes together to increase the distance.

Work up to training your dog off the leash in a fenced environment. This will teach him to come over long distances.

Ask someone to help with off-the-leash training. You can play “ping pong” and take turns calling the dog to each of you.

Give enormous rewards. Because this command is so important, the praise you give for performing it should be extravagant. Responding to the “come” command should be the best part of your dog’s day.

Do not create a negative association with this command. No matter how upset you are, never reinforce the “come” with anger. Even if you’re furious that your dog slipped the leash and ran free for five whole minutes, lavish him with praise when he finally responds to the “come.” Remember that you’re praising the last thing he did did, and the last thing he did was to come to you.

Don’t ever correct, yell, yank or in any way make coming to you a bad thing. You can undo years of training with one bad experience.
Never do something your dog won’t enjoy after giving a “come.” Though you may be tempted to give the command when you need to give him a bath, trim his nails, or cleans his ears, the “come” should always lead to joy.^[5]
If you have to do something your dog won’t like, just go and get the dog yourself instead of giving the command. Praise the dog along the way for being calm and accepting of the task. You can use treats, of course.

Go back to basics. If you have a scare where your dog runs loose and ignores the “come” command, go back to leash training. Continue working on the leash until he responds reliably to the “come.”

Don’t rush the training on this command. It’s too important to do half-heartedly.

Reinforce the training throughout your dog’s life. Because this behavior is so important, it must be reinforced throughout his entire lifetime. If you take off-leash hikes with your dog, keep treats in your pocket to reinforce the command.

You also want a command to let the dog know that it does not have to be right next to you all the time. Something like “free” is one way to phrase it, but the idea is that the dog can do what it wants and is not under command until you give it one.

Keep the fun going. You don’t want the dog to think that every time they come to you, the fun stops, someone puts on the leash, and they go back home. Otherwise, you will start to get less reliable and less happy “comes.” So, call the dog, praise them when they arrive and set them “free” to play again.

Acclimate the dog to collar grabs. This doesn’t have to be paired with any verbal commands. When the dog comes to you, grab his collar so he doesn’t grow skittish every time he feels someone touch it.

When you lean over to reward him for the “come,” include grabbing the collar in your hand and petting around the neck as you give him his treat.^[6]
Once in a while, but not always, the leash should be attached when you grab the collar.
Also, you can always attach a short leash and let them “free” again. Leashes should mean fun things are about to happen and we get to go places. There is no room for harsh corrections.

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