Jamestown Pet – Page 2 – Jamestown Pet & Livestock Sitting

Teaching the “Take” and “Drop It” Commands

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Understand the command. The “take” is used whenever you want the dog to take something you offer into his mouth.

Give your dog a toy to play with. Give him the verbal command “take” as you do so. As he takes the toy in his mouth, reward him for the behavior with praise. (Plus, he gets to play with the toy!)

Transition to less rewarding objects. It’s easy for a dog to learn “take” when the object is so much fun! When he’s mastered the connection between command and behavior, move on to boring objects. Examples might include newspapers, light bags, or anything else you might want him to carry.

Pair “take” training with “drop it” training. Once he takes the toy, use the command “drop it” to have the dog release the toy back to you. Give him a treat and praise when he releases the toy, then start again with “take.” You don’t want the dog to think that the fun stops every time he releases the toy.

Do not get into a tugging match with the dog. When you tug, the dog tugs back harder.

Teaching Your Dog Positive Food Behaviors

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Have him wait patiently while you prepare his meal. There’s nothing more annoying than a dog who jumps and barks while you’re trying to prepare his meal. Instead, use the “wait” command he learned in doorway training to have him wait outside the threshold of the room where he’s fed.

When you’re ready, have your dog work for his food by commanding the dog “sit” and “stay” while you place the food on the ground.^[8]
Stand up and wait a few breaths before giving your release word. You can use “free” or you can create a new command for feeding time like “get your food” or “yummy.” Try to choose something you wouldn’t accidentally say to other people, such as “time to eat,” or, “let’s eat,” as this might falsely cue your dog that it’s time for his dinner.
Eventually, he will sit on his own as soon as he sees his feeding bowl.

Hand feed your dog. At meal time, start feeding your dog out of your hand. Then use your hands to put the rest of the food in the bowl. This will put your scent on your dog’s bowl and also normalize having your hands around their bowl and food. This should help fix or prevent any food aggression tendencies.^[9]

Teach your dog to “leave it.” Teaching your dog to move his nose away from food and other items can be beneficial in a number of situations, including when food is accidentally dropped on the floor during family dinner or when your dog seems interested in picking up something potentially harmful during a walk. To teach this command, do the following:

Stage one: Hold a treat in your closed hand. The dog will probably lick, sniff, and paw at your hand in an attempt to get to the treat. Eventually, when the dog moves his nose away, praise him and give him the treat.
Stage two: Add in the words “leave it.” Say these words when your dog decides to move his nose away.
Stage three: Hold one treat in your palm in front of the dog and one behind you in the other hand. Instruct your dog to “leave it.” If the dog gets too close to the treat, make a fist to hide the treat and say “no” or “uh-oh” to show the dog that he won’t be rewarded or noncompliance. When he obeys the “leave it” command, give him the treat that’s behind your back.
Stage four: Place the treat on the floor. Move the treat from your palm to the floor. Continue to reward your dog with the treat you have behind your back.
Stage five: Put your dog’s leash on and walk past the treat on the floor. Command him to “leave it” without jerking the leash. If he eats the treat, go back to an earlier stage.
Stage six: Start using the “leave it” command outside of your home.^[10]

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Tips & Warnings of Dog Training

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Tips

Obedience training really is not for the dog… it’s for YOU. This training teaches you how to communicate what you want your dog to do in a way that he understands. If you send your dog to someone else to train them, they learn to work with that person, not you. Take the time to learn how to train your dog, don’t pass the responsibility off to someone else. In some cases, you may need to have your dog learn the basics from someone else. But then, you should have the trainer work with you AND the dog together. This will make sure that you have the ability to continue the training at home. Check back in with the trainer for “tune up” sessions for you and your dog to keep everyone on track.^[13]
Remember that every dog is different. One dog might learn at a slower pace than another dog, and that’s okay. There is no such thing as an untrainable dog!
Remember that dogs do not communicate the same way humans do.
Do not let your dog “lean” on you either when you are standing up or sitting down. This is not a sign that they like you. This is a sign of dominance. The dog is encroaching into your space. You are the leader. Stand up and let your knee or foot nudge them out of your space. Praise the dog for getting up. Give the dog a command to lay down on their bed or go to their crate if you need to manage your personal space more effectively.
If using hand signals, be sure they are unique and distinct for the dog to see and differentiate. There are standard dog training signals used for basic commands like “sit,” “stay,” etc. If you are unsure, ask your trainer or look online or in a book for a clearer picture of the body language to use.
Be consistent. Make sure the command and hand signal use is the same each time.
Use a harness instead of a choke chain.
When using voice commands, use a firm voice. You mean for this dog to sit, so speak with meaning. Do not continue to repeat a command over and over again hoping the dog will eventually perform the command. Reinforce the command within two to three seconds if the command is not done and then praise the dog. You don’t want to be one of those people you see repeating “sit” 20 or so times until the dog sits. You want a sit on the first command, not the twentieth.
Do not allow your dog to bite you, even playfully. This sets a bad precedent and it will be difficult for you to break them of this habit. Dangerous, aggressive dogs will need special training from an experienced dog trainer. In some cases, a veterinary behaviorist will need to become involved. At no time should you take on an aggressive dog without the proper training. It is too dangerous.
If your dog is out of control, another good way to correct the behavior is to isolate them from the rest of the “pack”. Put them in their crate or kennel and ignore them. Isolation from the pack is dog language for “your behavior is unacceptable and we don’t like it.” Your dog will understand the message. They may whine and howl, but you have to ignore it. Think of it as a “time out” for your dog. When they are quiet and settled, let them out of the crate. Don’t forget to keep your dog exercised to help manage their energy level. Playing “fetch” is a great way to get the dog tired.
Praise your dog often and lavishly.
Training dogs requires a large amount of patience. It can be frustrating if you choose a breed wrong for your skill level or lifestyle. If you find you have made a poor choice, ask professionals for guidance. You may need to find a new home for the dog. Call your local rescue organization or veterinarian. Don’t wait until you and the dog have suffered. If you just don’t have the patience, then get yourself some personal one-on-one training from a reputable dog trainer. Nobody is a “born” dog trainer without getting educated.
Don’t be cruel to your dog or hit them. If you strike your dog out of frustration, he will only learn to fear you.
Clean up after your dog if they defecate on someone else’s property or in a public place. Doing this will ensure that others enjoy your dog as much as you do.
When teaching your dog to speak, howling/barking yourself might make your dog bark.
Never throw your dog your dinner scraps when eating. This will make him think you allow him to steal food, and he might take food from strangers. Also, when a dog begs turn away so he knows you don’t tolerate bad behavior. And be sure to treat your dog with love and have fun!

Warnings

Use a collar and leash that is appropriate to your dogs size. Too loose or too tight collars can cause injury.
Having a dog requires almost as much responsibility as having a child. If you’re not ready for that, don’t get a dog until you have done your research, and make adjustments to allow a dog into your life.
Keep regular vet visits and stay up to date on vaccinations. You should also keep current on license requirements, and have your pet spayed or neutered as soon as they are old enough.
Regular exercise for your dog will prevent him from being destructive in your home. Dogs get bored. When they get bored, they find ways to “entertain” themselves. That may include chewing your favorite shoes, destroying furniture, or barking nonstop. Avoid this problem by taking them for regular walks (twice a day is best). And it’s good for you too! “A tired dog is a good dog.” Exercise to the point of being tired is different for each individual.

Additional Resources

Don’t Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor
Getting Started: Clicker Training for Dogs by Karen Pryor
The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller
25 Stupid Mistakes Dog Owners Make by Janine Adams
The Art of Raising a Puppy by the Monks of New Skete
How to be Your Dog’s Best Friend by the Monks of New Skete
The Mentally Sound Dog: How to Shape, Train and Change Canine Behavior by Gail I. Clark

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Teaching Your Dog to “Listen” and “Speak”

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Teaching the “Listen”

Understand the purpose of the “listen” command. Also known as the “watch me” command, the “listen” is one of the first commands you should teach your dog. You’ll use it to get your dog’s attention so you can give him the next command or direction. Some people just use their dog’s name instead of the “listen.” This is especially useful if you have more than one dog. That way, each individual dog will know when you want it to focus on you.

Stand near your dog. Don’t engage with him, though. If he reacts to your presence, stand still and look away until he loses interest.

Say “Listen” in a quiet but firm voice. If you’re using your dog’s name instead of the “listen” or “watch me” commands, say his name instead. The tone and volume should be the same as if you were calling a person’s name to get their attention.

Don’t raise your voice to get his attention. Save the big booming voice for “life saving” situations, like if he escapes his fence or leash. If you rarely raise your voice, you’ll get your dog’s undivided attention when you do need to yell. But if you are always “loud” to your dog, they will ignore that sound and tune it out. Shouting will no longer be regarded as something that commands special attention.

Dogs have excellent hearing — far better than ours. A fun twist on this command is to see how quietly you can whisper and have your dog respond. People will think you are the “dog whisperer” when you can get him to perform commands with hardly a whisper.

Give an immediate reward for the desired response. As soon as your dog stops what he’s doing and looks toward you, praise him and give him a treat. Make the click sound before giving praise or a treat if you’re using clicker training.

Remember that your response must be immediate. The faster you reward him, the better he’ll understand the relationship between command, behavior, and reward.

Discontinue treats eventually. Once he’s mastered the command, you shouldn’t give him treats for performing it; however, you should still use your clicker or give verbal praise.

Weaning the dog off treats is important because he may start to expect treats all the time. You’ll end up with a dog who only performs when you have food.
Praise your dog regularly even after he’s mastered a command, but treat him intermittently. That’s the way to keep it solid in his doggy vocabulary.
Once he’s mastered command, you can use treats to shape the behavior to be faster or more accurate. He will soon realize that the treats come with the command or activity that follows the “listen.”

Teaching the “Speak”

Understand the command. The “speak” command teaches your dog to bark in response to your verbal cue. On its own, this command is something of a novelty. But in combination with the “quiet” command, it can help manage a barking problem in an overly vocal dog.^[11]

Take extreme caution when teaching this command. Inexperienced trainers sometimes find “speak” training spirals out of control. They end up with a dog who barks at them all the time.

Clicker train your dog. “Speak” training requires immediate praise, more so than other commands do. Teach your dog to associate the click sound with a treat by clicking and treating a few times in a row.

Continue this clicker training until your dog sees the click sound as a reward in and of itself. The treat will come later.

Figure out when your dog barks most. This will vary from dog to dog, so you have to observe your specific pet. He might bark most reliably when you withhold a treat, when someone knocks on the door, when someone rings the doorbell, or when someone honks a horn.

Recreate the triggering event. Once you’ve figured out what makes your dog bark, perform that action in front of your dog. The idea is to encourage him to bark on his own, then praise him for the action.

You can see how this might be dangerous in the hands of an inexperienced trainer.
That’s why “speak” training is a little different from the other commands. You’ll incorporate the verbal command from the very beginning. That way, the dog doesn’t think you’re praising him for his natural behavior.

Use the verbal “speak” command from the beginning. As soon as your dog barks for the very first time, give the verbal “speak” command, click, and give him a treat.

The other commands thus far have taught the behavior first, then added a command that preceded the behavior.
However, “speak” training gets out of hand too easily that way. The dog gets rewarded for barking at first.
Thus, it’s better to associate the verbal command with the behavior already in progress. Never reward the dog for barking without the verbal command.

Combine the “speak” with the “quiet” command. If you have a dog who naturally barks too much, you might not think teaching him to “speak” is going to help your situation. However, if you teach him to “speak,” then you can also teach him to “quiet.” While you may not need the “speak” for a dog who barks too much, you definitely need the “quiet.”

Once your dog has mastered the “speak,” begin incorporating “quiet” into your training sessions.
Give the “speak” command.
However, instead of rewarding the “speak” (barking), wait until the dog stops barking.
Give the verbal “quiet” command.
If the dog remains silent, reward the “quiet” (no barking) with a click and a treat.

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How to Teach “Heel” and “Come”

June 29, 2018August 12, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Teaching the “Heel”

Take your dog on regular walks with a leash. This is important not just for training, but for his physical and mental health. Depending on what breed of dog you have, he may need a lot of exercise to keep him happy and in shape.

Discourage pulling. Most dogs will pull on the leash when they’re learning to take walks. When he starts pulling, stop immediately. Don’t take another step until the dog comes to your side and focuses his attention on you.

Change directions. An even more effective method is to walk in the opposite direction and encourage your dog to come with you. Once he’s caught up, praise and treat him.

Make it fun to be by your side. Your dog’s natural impulse is to chart his own course and investigate his environment. You need to make walking by your side more appealing that that. Use an enthusiastic voice when changing directions, and lavish him with praise when he comes back to your side.

Pair the behavior with a verbal command. Once the dog walks consistently at your side, you can give the behavior a name, like “heel” or “let’s go.”

Teaching the “Come”

Understand the value of the command. The “come” is used whenever you want your dog to come to you. This command is potentially life-saving, as it can prevent your dog from running off if he gets loose.

Prepare your dog for “come” training. You always want to start training indoors (or in your fenced yard) with low distraction. Attach a 6-foot leash to your dog’s collar so that you have a way to keep his attention and prevent him from running away.

Attract your dog’s attention. You want to make him run toward you. You can do this with high-pitched noises associated with play, with a toy, with an excited clap, or just opening your arms. Running a short distance away from him and then stopping can also work, as dogs will naturally start to chase.

Use praise and your “happy voice” to encourage him to move toward you.

Give immediate praise. Sound your clicker, give him praise in your “happy voice,” and give him a treat when your dog reaches your side.

Pair the behavior with the verbal command. As your dog begins to realize he’ll be rewarded for coming to you, start giving the verbal command “come.” When he responds to the command, reinforce it in praise by pairing it with “good”: “good come!”

Move the training to more public spaces. Because the “come” command could save your dog’s life, he must learn to respond to it even when he’s distracted. Move the training sessions from your home or yard to a public park. There are more sights, sounds, and smells demanding his attention there.

Increase the leash length. You began training with a 6-foot leash, but you want your dog to come longer distances than that. Try attaching two leashes together to increase the distance.

Work up to training your dog off the leash in a fenced environment. This will teach him to come over long distances.

Ask someone to help with off-the-leash training. You can play “ping pong” and take turns calling the dog to each of you.

Give enormous rewards. Because this command is so important, the praise you give for performing it should be extravagant. Responding to the “come” command should be the best part of your dog’s day.

Do not create a negative association with this command. No matter how upset you are, never reinforce the “come” with anger. Even if you’re furious that your dog slipped the leash and ran free for five whole minutes, lavish him with praise when he finally responds to the “come.” Remember that you’re praising the last thing he did did, and the last thing he did was to come to you.

Don’t ever correct, yell, yank or in any way make coming to you a bad thing. You can undo years of training with one bad experience.
Never do something your dog won’t enjoy after giving a “come.” Though you may be tempted to give the command when you need to give him a bath, trim his nails, or cleans his ears, the “come” should always lead to joy.^[5]
If you have to do something your dog won’t like, just go and get the dog yourself instead of giving the command. Praise the dog along the way for being calm and accepting of the task. You can use treats, of course.

Go back to basics. If you have a scare where your dog runs loose and ignores the “come” command, go back to leash training. Continue working on the leash until he responds reliably to the “come.”

Don’t rush the training on this command. It’s too important to do half-heartedly.

Reinforce the training throughout your dog’s life. Because this behavior is so important, it must be reinforced throughout his entire lifetime. If you take off-leash hikes with your dog, keep treats in your pocket to reinforce the command.

You also want a command to let the dog know that it does not have to be right next to you all the time. Something like “free” is one way to phrase it, but the idea is that the dog can do what it wants and is not under command until you give it one.

Keep the fun going. You don’t want the dog to think that every time they come to you, the fun stops, someone puts on the leash, and they go back home. Otherwise, you will start to get less reliable and less happy “comes.” So, call the dog, praise them when they arrive and set them “free” to play again.

Acclimate the dog to collar grabs. This doesn’t have to be paired with any verbal commands. When the dog comes to you, grab his collar so he doesn’t grow skittish every time he feels someone touch it.

When you lean over to reward him for the “come,” include grabbing the collar in your hand and petting around the neck as you give him his treat.^[6]
Once in a while, but not always, the leash should be attached when you grab the collar.
Also, you can always attach a short leash and let them “free” again. Leashes should mean fun things are about to happen and we get to go places. There is no room for harsh corrections.

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How to Train a Dog

June 29, 2018August 11, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Are you thinking of adding a new dog to your life? Would you like your current dog to be better behaved? Would you like to train your dog to serve your needs instead being trained to serve its needs? Attending dog classes led by a professional trainer is the best approach, but not everyone can afford classes. These tips are a good start to training your canine companion. There are many philosophies and approaches to dog training, so do your research and learn what works for you and your dog.^[1]

Preparing for Dog Training

Choose a dog that fits your lifestyle. After centuries of breeding, the modern dog is one of the most varied species of animal on earth. While there’s probably a dog to suit every lifestyle, not all dogs will fit your specific needs. For example, if you like to relax, you should not get a Jack Russell Terrier, known for its constant barking and high energy.^[2] Instead, you might want a bulldog that would much prefer to cuddle on the couch all day.^[3] Research the personalities and care requirements of various breeds. Ask dog owners about their breed’s personality.

Since most dogs live for 10 – 15 years, getting a dog is a long-term commitment. Make sure the breed’s temperament is a good match for your lifestyle.
If you haven’t yet started a family, consider whether you’ll have young children around the house in the next decade. Some breeds are not recommended for households with children.

Don’t get an aspirational dog. Be honest with yourself about the compatibility of the dog you want with your lifestyle. Don’t get a dog that needs a lot of activity just because you want a reason to jumpstart a healthier lifestyle yourself. If you can’t follow through on exercising your high-energy dog, you and the dog will both end up frustrated.

Write down the needs and temperament of the breed, as well as how you will meet those needs.
If it’s going to take significant effort to change your lifestyle, you need to choose a different dog.

Give your dog a practical name. He needs to be able to learn his name easily, so you can hold his attention during training. The name should also have clear, hard sounds the dog can recognize. Names such as “Buddy” or “Rover” or “Bee Bee” have distinct sounds that stand out from the regular flood of human speech your dog hears.

Use your dog’s name often when you are playing, petting him, training him, or need to get his attention.
If your dog looks at you when you say his name, you know he’s learned it.
Create a positive association with his name so he’ll continue to focus on you when you say it. Praise him when he responds to his name, and give him treats.

Schedule enough time for training. You’ll need to set aside 15 – 20 minutes a couple of times each day for formal training sessions. Puppies have a short attention span and get bored easily, just like a toddler would.

Those sessions are not the only time you’ll train your dog, though. Training actually happens throughout the day when interacting with your pet. He’s learning from you every time you interact.
Bad dog habits develop when owners let dogs get away with bad behavior outside of dedicated training sessions. So, always keep an eye on your dog outside of training sessions. If he knows it during training sessions, then make sure he remembers it outside of training.

Prepare your mental state for training sessions. When you’re working with your dog, be calm and neutral. Any form of agitation and excitement on your part will negatively affect the outcome of training. You should be mindful of the fact that the goal of training is to be able to reinforce good dog behavior and to ignore or not reinforce bad ones. It may sound strict but producing a well trained dog requires the determination and conviction to see it through.

Choose the proper equipment. A 6-foot leash and flat collar or martingale collar may be all the you need to start, besides your treats. Consult a trainer for advice on other equipment like a “Promise Leader” head halter, a “No Pull” harness, a metal training collar, or other device. Puppies or small dogs generally do not need harsh equipment. Larger dogs may temporarily need specialized equipment (like the “Promise Leader”) to keep their focus.^[4]

Applying General Training Principles

Manage your expectations and mood. Not every training day is going to be perfect, but don’t get frustrated and don’t take it out on your dog. Adjust your own behavior and attitude to encourage your dog’s ability and confidence to learn. If you have a calm mood, generally your dog will, too.

If the dog becomes afraid of your bad mood, he will not learn anything new. He’ll only learn to be wary and not trust you.
Dog training classes and a good trainer can help you improve your behavior which will translate to success with your dog.

Keep your dog’s temperament in mind. All dogs have different temperaments. Just like kids, different breeds learn differently and at different rates. Some dogs are stubborn and will challenge you at every turn. Others will bend over backwards to please you. You may need to adjust your training techniques to meet the need of your dog’s temperament.

Give immediate rewards. Dogs don’t understand long-term cause and effects. They learn fast. You must praise or reward your dog within 2 seconds of a desired behavior to reinforce that behavior. If you wait too long, he will not associate the reward with the action you asked him to perform.

Furthermore, you must make sure that your praise is fast enough to be accurate. Otherwise, you may reward behaviors that you don’t want.
Imagine, for example, that you are teaching your dog the “sit” command. He sits for just a moment, but by the time you praise and reward him, he’s started standing back up. In this case, you are rewarding the standing behavior, not the sitting behavior.

Consider clicker training. Clicker training is a method of delivering immediate praise with the help of a clicker. You can click faster than you can give a treat or pet your dog’s head. As such, clicker training reinforces good behavior fast enough for a dog’s learning speed. It works by creating a positive association between the click sound and rewards. Eventually, your dog will consider the sound of the clicker itself reward enough for good behavior. You can apply the principle of clicker training to any dog command.

Click the clicker device, then immediately give the dog a treat. This creates a positive association with the click sound. Later, that sound will “mark” a behavior as correct so the dog knows that he did something right.
When the dog performs a desired behavior, make the click sound, then give him a treat. Once he’s performing that behavior consistently, you can give the behavior a command name. Begin tying the command and the behavior together with the help of the clicker.
For example, before you ever teach your dog the “sit” command, give the click sound, a treat, and praise when you find him sitting. When he begins sitting just to get the treats, start saying the word “sit” to get him into position. Pair it with the click sound to reward him. Eventually, he will learn that sitting in response to the “sit” command will earn him a click reward.

Be consistent. Your dog won’t understand what you want from him if his environment lacks consistency. Everyone who lives with your dog should understand and be on board with his training goals. For example, if you are training your dog not to jump on people, don’t let the kids allow the dog jump all over them. This will undermine all the training you’ve done.

Make sure everyone uses the exact commands your dog learns in training. He doesn’t speak English, and can’t tell the difference between “sit” and “sit down.” Using those terms interchangeably will only confuse him.
Because he won’t make a clear connection between a single command and a single action, his response to the command will be hit or miss.

Always reward success and good behavior with praise, and sometimes a small treat. Small treats help motivate your dog to learn his training. The treat needs to be small, tasty, and easily chewed. You don’t want it to interrupt the training session or make them full too quickly.

Consider how long it takes to chew a hard treat versus a semi-moist treat like “Bill Jack” or “Zuke’s Mini Naturals.” Treats about the size of a pencil eraser head are enough to get the positive point across, and you don’t have to wait long for your dog to eat it.

Use “high value” treats when needed. When teaching difficult or important a command, use a “high value” treat to raise the stakes for him. Examples include freeze-dried liver, roasted chicken breast chunks, or slices of turkey lunch meat.

As the dog learns the command, phase out the high value treats and bring them back as needed to advance your training, but always give him praise.

Train on an empty stomach. Don’t feed as large a meal as usual a few hours before training your dog. The more your dog wants the treat, the more focused he’ll be on the task he needs to perform to get it.

Always end training on a positive note. Even if the training session did not go well and your dog didn’t catch on to a new command, end on something that you can praise him for. By ending the training session with a command he’s already mastered, the last thing he remembers will be your love and praise.

Discourage barking. If your dog barks at you when you don’t want him to, just ignore him until he stops, and then reward him with praise. Sometimes they bark at you for attention, while other times it may be out of frustration.

Do not throw a ball or toy. This only teaches him that if he barks, he’ll get you to do something he wants.
Don’t yell at the dog to be quiet, as this rewards him with attention.

How to Prevent Bloating in Dogs

June 29, 2018August 11, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Bloat in dogs is a very serious medical condition that should be treated as an emergency. The technical name for bloat is gastric dilation and volvulus syndrome (GDV) and it occurs when the stomach dilates or expands with fluid and gas. Once the stomach expands the problems increase, as the stomach twists and rotates around its short axis.^[1] GDV needs to be treated quickly, as the twisting action can irreparably damage the body tissues, leading to death.

Assessing and Lowering Your Dog’s Risk of Bloat

Assess genetic risk factors. We are not entirely certain why bloat occurs but we do know that it can run in families. Determine your dogs relatives (littermate, parents) have had bloat. If they have, then your dog has a higher risk of getting it.^[2]

Determine if your dog has a build that would boost its chances of getting bloat. Middle-aged and older large and giant breed dogs are more likely to experience bloat. Most of these dogs have a deep chest and a thin body frame. These physical traits can contribute to the incidence of bloat.^[3]

Evaluate whether your dog’s eating habits will increase its likelihood of getting bloat. How your dog eats will influence its risk of getting bloat. Feeding habits that can increase the likelihood of bloat include: ^[4]

Feeding a dog from a raised bowl.
Feeding a large amount of food or water at one time or over time.
Once a day feeding.
Vigorous exercise around feeding time.
Rapid eating of food which means more air in the stomach.
Conditions in which the outflow of food from the stomach is slowed or impeded.
Feeding dry foods with a high oil or fat content.

Eliminate risk factors. While there are some factors you cannot change, such as the genetics and the build of your dog, there are some things you can do to lessen the risk of your dog getting bloat. Researchers at Purdue University performed a major study on bloat in dogs.^[5] Study results determined that there were some steps that dog owners can do to help prevent bloat. These steps are:

Divide the food into two or more smaller servings a day.
Do not feed from a raised bowl. Feed from a bowl on the ground.
Make sure that fat isn’t in the top four ingredients of the food you feed your dog.
Do not feed an all dry food diet. Include wet foods or large meat chunks in the diet.
Do not moisten dry food.
Wait one hour before feeding and two hours after eating before letting your dog exercise or before going for walks, etc.
For dry food, feed no more than one cup per thirty pounds of body weight per meal (divided between at least two meals).
If your dog is a greedy eater and gulps its food, invest in a food dish that forces the dog to eat slower, such as the slow feeder or fun feeder.

Consider preventative surgery. Discuss with your veterinarian if your dog would be a good candidate for a precautionary gastropexy. Military service dogs (large breeds like German shepherd and Belgian Malinois) are frequently given a precautionary gastropexy to avoid any emergency situations when they are on the battlefield.^[6] However, most owners opt to monitor their large and giant breed dogs instead of taking this measure.

Diagnosing and Treating Bloat

Keep a look out for symptoms of bloat. The signs of bloat usually come on rapidly. These include:^[7]

Pacing and restlessness
Excessive salivation
Enlarged abdomen (belly)
Reluctance or inability to stand or walk.
Rapid or weak pulse
Pale gums
Retching or dry heaving without bringing anything up. The esophagus is involved in the twist so nothing can come back through the mouth.

Take your dog to a veterinarian immediately if you see the symptoms of bloat. Keep in mind that this is a medical emergency and the dog needs to be taken to the veterinarian as soon as possible if bloat is suspected. Dogs can die soon after the signs appear due to damage done to internal organs, collapse of the circulatory system, toxin buildup, and shock.

A dog that is brought into the veterinarian’s office is first given a physical examination and blood is checked for responses to internal organ damage. Radiographs (X-rays) are generally taken, which will show the bloated stomach along with the twist in the stomach.
In some cases a needle is advanced into the abdominal cavity and suction is applied to the syringe. This is done to determine if the stomach has ruptured, an unfortunate outcome in some cases of bloat.

Get bloat treated. A tube may be passed through the dog’s mouth and into the stomach to relieve the pressure of air buildup. Occasionally a tube will be placed directly through the skin and muscle into the stomach to relieve the pressure in the stomach. An intravenous (IV) line will be placed in a vein to provide medications and fluids.^[8]

The treatment of bloat is surgery to untwist the stomach and to suture part of the stomach to the inside of the abdomen wall to prevent it from recurring. This is called a gastropexy. If the stomach ruptured the stomach will be repaired and the internal abdomen will be flushed.
Dogs will be closely monitored after surgery. Generally the dog will be placed on antibiotics and pain killers before and after surgery. Depending on your veterinarian clinic and how intensive the surgery was, the dog will need to remain hospitalized for up to 7 days.
Sadly up to 15% of dogs with gastric dilation and volvulus do not survive surgery despite the skill of the veterinarian.^[9]

Sources:

↑ http://www.petmd.com/dog/conditions/digestive/c_dg_gastric_dilation_volvulus_syndrome
↑ Small Animal Practice Client Handouts. Rhea V. Morgan. Elsevier Health Sciences. 2010
↑ http://tate.cx:82/redpc/node/243
↑ http://www.petmd.com/dog/conditions/digestive/c_dg_gastric_dilation_volvulus_syndrome?page=2
↑ http://www.instituteofcaninebiology.org/bloat-purdue-study.html
↑ http://www.pacaf.af.mil/News/ArticleDisplay/tabid/377/Article/594871/kadena-vet-clinic-keeps-military-working-dogs-in-top-shape.aspx
↑ Handbook of Small Animal Gastroenterology. Todd R. Tams. Elsevier Health Sciences. 2003
↑ Textbook of Small Animal Surgery, Volume 1. Douglas H. Slatter. Elsevier Health Sciences. 2003

How to Calm an Aggressive Dog

June 29, 2018August 11, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Dogs can display aggressive behavior for a number of reasons. Knowing what your dog’s triggers are, as well as exposing them other dogs and individuals, will help curb their aggressive behavior. Aggressive behavior is not permanent and there are many methods and approaches to change and calm your dog’s aggressive behavior.

Preventing Aggression

Exercise your dog. Many dogs that demonstrate aggressive behavior benefit from extensive exercise regimens. The more energy your dog burns the better their state of mind and the less likely they are to exhibit aggression.^[1]

Take your dog for regular daily walks at least twice a day.
Take your dog to the park to let them burn off excess energy.

Socialize your dog. Socializing your dog as early as possible will help them get used to encounters and interactions with both humans and other dogs. Take your dog to a dog park or create one on one play dates with other dogs to give your dog the social interaction it needs.^[2]

Consult your vet for recommendations for enrolling your dog in a socialization class.

Enroll your dog in behavioral courses. Aggression training camps can help deal with past traumatic experiences as well as provide both you and your dog with tools for dealing with aggressive behavior. Consult your vet for aggression training camp or behavioral class recommendations.

Know your dog’s triggers. Knowing what your dogs triggers are will help you avoid aggressive behavior and address it appropriately. Consult your breeder or shelter about your dog’s history to see if their aggression is learned or caused by trauma. Check the humane society to learn more about the causes and types of aggressive behavior to better understand what your dog’s triggers might be.^[3]

Bring your dog’s triggers to the attention of your vet to see if their behavior can be treated with medication.
Make your dog’s triggers known to any trainer should you enroll in a aggression training camp or behavioral course.

Surrender your dog to their breeder or shelter. If you do not have the time, money, or resources to deal with and prevent your dog’s aggression you might consider surrendering you dog back to their breeder or shelter. Be honest about your concerns and the dog’s behavior so that they have the possibility of being re-homed to another owner who may be able to deal with their aggressive behavior.^[4]

Many shelters have a euthanasia policy in place for aggressive animals. Check with your shelter to discuss their aggressive animal policy.^[5]

Dealing with Dog to Dog Aggression

Be calm and decisive. Dogs are sensitive to the moods of others, especially when they are in a state of aggression. The more calm you are when other dogs are approaching the less likely your dog will be to exhibit aggressive behavior.^[6]

Avoid tensing up the leash, forcing your dog to move quickly, or raising your voice if you anticipate a aggressive outburst. Instead, calmly lead your dog away from approaching dogs or if they are already displaying aggressive behavior.^[7]
Remember, the calmer you are the calmer your dog will be.

Create space. If you see another dog approaching, move to the other side of the road, walk to another side of the park, or take a safe distance and wait for the dog to pass. Creating space between your dog and the other dog will help you avoid any aggressive interaction.^[8]

Try using a blockade, like a car or tree, when another dog is approaching.
Avoid pulling back on the leash when pulling your dog away from other dogs. Instead, pull your dog to the side and calmly lead them away.

Desensitize your dog to other dogs. The more frequently and consistently your dog interacts with other dogs the less likely they are to display aggressive behavior. Scheduling regular play dates with other dogs, walking calmly by other dogs, and have brief encounters with dogs at the dog park with help desensitize your dog.^[9]

Keep a long distance when first desensitizing your dog to other dogs. Once they seem comfortable continue approaching at a steady rate and stop and wait once their aggression is triggered again.^[10]

Dealing with Dog to Human Aggression

Act calmly and quickly. Both dogs and people can be sensitive to the others moods. If you sense a potential outburst, or if your dog is already displaying aggressive behavior, stay calm and respond quickly. Restrain your dog on their leash or grab their collar and redirect them if they start displaying aggressive behavior.^[11]

Ask the individual to slowly back away and re-approach once your dog has calmed down.

Practicing blocking. Standing in front of your dog and blocking them from approaching others will keep their aggression at bay. Your dog’s line of vision will also be blocked, which may relieve them of their trigger entirely. Remember, you know your dog better than anyone else so it is your responsibility to mediate for them.^[12]

If you have enrolled in behavioral classes use some commands or directives to relive your dog of tension.

Slowly introduce your dog to new people. Many dogs are aggressive toward new people. Introducing them slowly will help your dog gradually become used to their presence and curb aggressive behavior. If you are trying to introduce your dog to someone specifically set up regular play dates where your dog can continually get used to the individual.

Have the individual slowly extend the back of their hand and offer it to your dog to smell. This will help them become familiar with the individual and will allow for them to approach your dog.

Sources:

How to Live with a High Energy Dog

June 29, 2018August 11, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

Activity is key to any dog’s health and happiness. Many breeds instinctively “work” through physical activity.^[1] But some breeds such as shepherds, herding dogs, terriers, and retrievers have a lot more energy than their counterparts including bulldogs.^[2] If you have a high energy dog, it’s important to give it enough activity to prevent boredom, frustration, and destructive behaviors. It can also help maintain your high energy breed’s health.^[3] You can live with a high energy dog by giving it enough exercise daily, incorporating it into daily tasks, and keeping it occupied.

Recognizing Activity Needs for Your High Energy Dog

Identify high energy breeds. It’s important to know if your dog is a high energy breed. This can ensure that you get it enough activity so that it doesn’t get bored or exhibit destructive behaviors. Most dogs in the hunting, working, or herding groups are high energy. These groups include retrievers, hounds, collies, spaniels, pointers, terriers, and shepherds. Some specific dog breeds that are high energy include:^[4]

Alaska Malamute
Bernese Mountain
Norwich Terrier
Shetland Sheepdog
Weimaraner
Parson’s Russell Terrier

Figure out your dog’s exercise needs. Simply taking your high energy dog for one or two short walks isn’t enough activity, nor is letting it loose in the backyard. High energy dogs need more exercise than low energy breeds. In general, they will need at least 30 minutes of vigorous exercise every day as well 1-2 hours of additional activity. Some great ways to meet your high energy dog’s both indoors and outdoors include:^[5]

Walking
Running
Swimming
Climbing and/ or running up stairs
Throwing toys
Enjoying time in a fenced-in yard
Obstacle courses^[6]

Watch for warning signs. High energy dogs are easily bored if they have nothing to do and destroy furniture, pillows, clothing or other household items as a result.^[7] Watching your high energy dog’s behavior can signal if it needs more exercise or activity.^[8] Some signs your dog may have energy to burn include:

Barking or whining
Digging
Jumping
Restlessness
Chewing, nipping, or biting
Scratching^[9]

Incorporating Activity During the Day

Establish a regular activity schedule. High energy dogs need regular exercise as a result of their evolution. Your breed may require as many as 2 ½ hours of activity every day.^[10] This may be a lot of time if you are very busy. Setting a daily activity schedule can keep your high energy dog healthy and happy. The routine helps your dog anticipate it and may minimize unwanted behaviors.^[11]

Establish a specific time every day for 30 minutes of vigorous activity with your dog. For example, set aside 30 minutes every morning to run. If you don’t run, let your dog run in an enclosed yard or dog park for 30 minutes. You could also play fetch or blow bubbles specifically designed for dogs to chase.^[12]
Incorporate a brisk walk of about an hour every day, too. Break this into two 30-minute walks if need be.
Adjust your dog’s exercise routine as necessary. For example, if you have an appointment and get home early, use the extra time to engage your high energy dog.

Get activity you and your dog enjoy. Just like people, every dog has a distinct personality. Your dog may run or play harder in certain place or with specific activities. Take at least one day to do something with your dog that you both enjoy but can’t get to daily. You could do any of the following “doggy and me” activities:^[13]

Running
Inline skating
Bicycling
Hiking^[14]
Swimming^[15]
Jumping over obstacles^[16]

Have fun indoors. If it is extremely cold or hot outside, it’s safer to keep your dog inside except for potty breaks. You can still give your high energy dog plenty of activity even if you are indoors.^[17] This can also be a great way to give your high energy dog activity if you are worn out or physically unwell. Doing any of the following can ensure your high energy gets enough activity and exercise so that it doesn’t get bored:^[18]

Running up the stairs with your dog
Playing fetch. You can increase the energy by trying this game on the stairs.^[19]
Hiding treats around the house or in toys^[20]
Playing keep away
Kicking around dog exercise balls^[21]
Setting up an obstacle course

Create a safe outside space. A backyard is a great space to give your dog some activity. It’s not sufficient as a form of exercise, but can help burn off extra energy if you are worn out or otherwise unwell. Make sure to always supervise your dog in a fenced-in yard space.^[22]

Turn outdoor time into exercise time, even if you are unwell or worn out. You can easily do this by sitting outside or in a doorway and throwing your dog a ball, Frisbee, or other item to retrieve for you. Incorporate some games of tug while you’re watching your dog for added activity.^[23]
Consider a dog park as an alternative to a yard space. This can help your dog get exercise and activity that burns energy—and boredom.

Make your dog work for its meal. Your dog may be hungry when it comes in from outside or after an indoor activity. Feeding your dog by using smart toys such as Kongs, Buster Cubes, Squirrel Dudes, and Tug-a-Jugs can provide vital activity and mental stimulation that requires little effort on your part.

Consider giving your dog some of its regular food when you get home so it’s not starving. Then put the rest into a smart toy.
Recognize that this is a great way to keep your dog busy when you are not home, feeling unwell, or unable to provide more activity because of external factors.

Ask family and friends for help. It may be difficult at times to live with your high energy dog. This is true if you are worn out, physically unwell, or stressed out. Enlist the help of family members or friends with your dog. Many people are more than happy to help out with a cute pet. This can give you a needed break and provide your dog with the necessary activity to burn its energy and stay content.

Consider asking friends who have children to give you a hand. Kids often love dogs and have similar amounts of energy to run around and play games.

Keeping Your Dog Busy While You’re Away

Create a “doggy den.” Dogs are social animals that live in packs in the wild. Because of this, high energy dogs need more stimulation and are more prone to separation anxiety. This can be especially true if you have to leave your dog for 8-10 hours a day. Separation anxiety can lead to inactivity as well as cause boredom and destructive behaviors. Making a safe space that mimics a den can ensure your high energy dog gets enough activity and doesn’t develop separation anxiety.^[24]

Put the dog in a dog-proof room or its crate. Make it comfortable with familiar toys, food and water, and other things to keep it busy such as chew sticks.^[25]
Leave a piece of your recently worn clothing to provide your dog extra comfort.

Place toys in the den. Your high energy dog will still need activity even in a doggy den. Providing it toys can help your dog get exercise and entertainment until you get home. Consider putting the following toys in your dog’s space:^[26]

Hard rubber toys for chewing and carrying around
Rope toys
Balls
“Busy box” toys with hiding places for snacks.
Soft, stuffed and/or squeaky toys
Chew toys^[27]

Try doggy daycare or a walker. Your high energy dog may have more activity needs than you can accommodate. If you need to leave for longer periods of time, consider putting your dog in day care. You can also employ a professional dog walker. Both can provide attention and activity when you can’t. Your dog should always return home happy and worn out from day care or time with a dog walker.^[28]

Save the contact information for a couple of dependable dog walkers. They can help you in a pinch or if one is on vacation or otherwise unavailable.

Sources:

How to Exercise Your Dog in Cold Weather

June 29, 2018August 11, 2017 by Jamestown Pet

When exercising your dog outdoors in the cold, you will need to take the necessary precautions to ensure that your dog is safe and warm. Purchase a waterproof vest to keep your dog warm. You might also want to invest in a pair of booties to keep your dog’s paws warm and safe. Motivate your dog to exercise outside by introducing new games, toys, and paths to explore. If it is too cold to exercise outside, there are a variety of indoor activities you can do that will fulfill your dog’s exercise needs.

Keeping Your Dog Warm and Safe

Purchase a vest or coat. If your dog has a short coat, is a puppy or a small breed, or is older you will need to purchase a vest or coat for your dog. The vest will provide your dog with the additional warmth it needs to exercise and play outside. A vest is necessary especially if you and your dog are going on a long walk or hike.^[1]

Purchase a waterproof vest from your local pet supply store.
Always make sure the vest is dry before putting it on your dog.

Massage petroleum jelly onto its paws. Ice, salt, snow, and the cold ground can all crack, sting, and dry out your dog’s paws. This can cause discomfort, pain, and bleeding. In order to prevent this, apply petroleum jelly or another protectorate onto your dog’s paws before going outside.^[2]

Alternatively, you can purchase dog booties from your local pet supply store. Booties will keep your dog’s paws warm and protected. Before going outside, acclimate your dog to the booties. Place them on your dog’s paws. Praise and reward your dog with treats for good behavior.

Wipe its paws afterwards. Icy and snowy streets and sidewalks may contain chemical de-icers. De-icers can be harmful to your dog if ingested. Therefore, after a day of exercise and fun in the snow and ice, make sure to clean your dog’s paws and belly. Use a clean towel with warm water to wipe its paws and belly down.^[3]

Also, use a dry towel to wipe down your dog to ensure that its fur is dry.
Bring a towel with you on your walks so you can wipe away ice and snow as needed.

Up your dog’s caloric intake. Your dog’s body uses more energy to keep itself warm outdoors in the cold. Therefore, you may need to feed your dog extra food so its body can create enough energy to keep it warm.^[4]

During the winter months, feed your dog 15 percent more for every 20-degree drop in temperature.^[5]

Monitor your dog. When outside, make sure to monitor your dog for signs of being too cold. Signs that your dog is too cold are shaking/shivering, whining or barking, hunched posture with a tucked tail, and lifting its paws off the ground. Other signs include changes in behavior (seeming anxious or uncomfortable), a reluctance to keep walking, or wanting to go inside.^[6]

Take your dog inside if it is displaying these signs.
In general, if the weather is too cold for you, then it is most likely too cold for your dog as well. Avoid going outside on these days.

Motivating Your Dog

Change your routine. A slight change in routine may just be the motivation your dog needs to go outside on cold days. Walk a different path in your neighborhood, or take your dog to the dog park or another hiking trail instead of the usual one.

New toys or games may also entice your dog to go outside. Purchase a new toy or introduce a new game to your dog.

Choose brightly colored toys. Heavy balls and neutral colored toys may get lost in the snow. Instead, choose glow-in-the-dark or brightly colored toys so your dog can find them. Additionally, purchase toys that will not sink in the snow, like Frisbees and balls made of lighter materials.^[7]

Try skijoring. Skijoring is like dog sledding, but instead of pulling you on a sled, your dog pulls you while you are on skis. Your dog must be at least 30 pounds in order to do this activity. You will need to purchase an appropriate sized pulling harness for your dog. Your dog should also know basic commands before engaging in skijoring.^[8]

You will also need to purchase a 6 to 10 foot gangline and a skijoring belt—a rock climbing harness or a weight lifting belt will work as well.
Attach the gangline to your belt and to your dog’s harness and enjoy skijoring.

Exercising Your Dog Indoor

Play fetch. Play fetch in a long hallway or open space in your house with one of your dog’s favorite toys. To make it more challenging, throw the object up a stairway. Tug-of-war is also a good game to play inside if your house is too small for a game of fetch.^[9]

Alternatively, walk your dog up and down the stairs while on a leash. Run up and down, take two steps at a time, or climb the stairs sideways for an additional challenge.

Make a scavenger hunt. For dinnertime, place your dog’s food in different places throughout your house. Help your dog by making a trail of dog food leading from one spot to the next. This exercise will challenge your dog’s nose and stimulate its mind at the same time.^[10]

You can also place your dog’s food in a food puzzle, like a Kong, to keep it busy for a couple hours.

Sign your dog up for an exercise class. Indoor exercise classes, like indoor swimming or yoga, are a great way to fulfill your dog’s exercise needs when you need a change of scenery. Sign your dog up for a class at your local pet supply store, or search for classes online.^[11]

Exercise classes also have the added benefit of socializing your dog and increasing its mental agility.

Sources: