How to Protect Your Horse During Fireworks

Fourth of July celebrations can be fun for people, but they can be terrifying for some your pets and livestock, especially those who are skittish and noise-averse. Fireworks set off nearby can easily unnerve these sensitive animals.

For horses fearful of fireworks, it may be best to relocate them to a quieter ranch during the upcoming holiday. If you’re concerned about your horse’s reaction, take precautions to ensure everyone’s safety. Place your horse in a familiar and secure location, such as a stall or a small paddock.

A panicked horse escaping down roads or into the wilderness, especially at night, can lead to accidents or death. Remember to thoroughly inspect the fence line and latches for any potential escape routes. Consider placing a radio nearby and turning up the volume.

For extremely skittish horses, you may want to talk to your veterinarian about sedation as an option. Remember that the administration of these medications needs to be timed with the fireworks display, and you’ll need to monitor your horse closely while on medication.

Importance of Annual Dental Check-Ups for Horses

Focusing on the Benefits of Floating for Older Horses

Maintaining proper dental care in horses is vital for their overall health and well-being. While young horses often have fewer dental issues, older horses are more susceptible to developing problems that can significantly impact their quality of life. Annual dental check-ups are crucial for preventing and addressing these issues.

The frequency of floating varies based on several factors:

  • Age: Older horses are more likely to develop dental issues and may require more frequent floating.
  • Diet: Horses that consume softer feeds may not naturally wear down their teeth as effectively as those that graze on tougher, fibrous materials.
  • Environment: Horses in environments where they chew on hard objects, like wood or fences, might experience different wear patterns requiring more frequent dental care.

It is crucial to have a veterinarian inspect a horse’s teeth at least once a year. This annual examination allows the vet to assess the condition of the teeth and determine if floating or other dental interventions are necessary. In some cases, more frequent check-ups may be required, particularly for horses with known dental issues or those showing signs of discomfort or difficulty eating.

Overall, maintaining regular dental care through annual inspections and timely floating is a key component of equine health management, ensuring that older horses remain comfortable and healthy.

How to Cool Off Your Dog

When hot weather arrives, it’s natural to want to get out and soak up as much sun as possible. Of course you want to bring your dog with you on your summer adventures, but it’s important to know that dogs don’t respond to heat the same way we do and may have trouble cooling down after being exposed to temperatures above 80°F (28°C). This article will teach how to tell if your pooch is too hot, how to cool him down, and how to keep him safe and comfortable all summer long.

Checking for Signs of Overheating and Dehydration

Notice if your dog is panting excessively, drooling, or has thick, sticky saliva.

These are all signs that your dog is overheated and, if you don’t act, could lead to heatstroke. If you notice your dog displaying these symptoms, begin cooling her down right away. Even if you think she’s just hot and not experiencing overheating yet, it’s worth it to call your vet and get their opinion.  More severe overheating can cause diarrhea, vomiting (sometimes bloody), seizures, coma, cardiac arrest and death.

Check the elasticity of your dog’s skin to see if he is dehydrated.

Gently pull the skin on the back of your dog’s neck. If your dog is hydrated, the skin should immediately go back to it’s normal position. If the skin sticks up or stays wrinkled, your dog may be dehydrated.[3]The longer it takes the skin to return to normal, the more severe the dehydration.[4]Take your dog to the vet so he can get treated with IV fluid.

 

How to Prevent Heat Stroke in Dogs

Tips

Hot summer weather can be more dangerous to dogs than many pet owners realize. When a dog’s internal temperature is raised too high (generally about 106°F or 41°C), they can suffer a potentially fatal heat stroke. To keep your dog cool, make sure that they are prepared for hot weather with plenty of water and shade. If you are walking your dog, you may want to switch your usual path for a cooler, shadier trail. Driving with dogs presents its own risks, and whether you are going to the store or on a long-distance road trip, you should make sure your dog has what they need for the journey. Never leave a dog in a car alone.

Cooling Down Your Dog

Trim but do not shave their coat. Dogs’ fur is designed not only to keep them warm but to protect their skin from the sun. Some breeds have heavier coats than others, and you may want to take them to a dog groomer to have their coat trimmed for the summer months. That said, do not shave your dog, or you may leave them at risk for sunburn and overheating.

Leave a water bowl outside. If you have a backyard where your dog runs free, you should leave out a full bowl of water when they are running around in the heat. Refill this bowl every time your dog goes outside to make sure that it is cool and fresh.

Give dogs plenty of shade. Dogs will need shady areas to rest while they are outside so that they do not overheat. If you have a backyard, you might want to provide your dog with an area of shade, either by giving them a dog house, an umbrella, or by planting trees.If you are planning on taking your dog to the beach, be aware that there might not be much shade available. Sand can also become hot, burning your dog’s paws.

Avoid tethering your dog outside for long periods of time. Some dogs are kept outside tied to a tree or post. Others might wait outside while their owner goes into a shop. Either way, in the summertime, it is inadvisable to leave your dog tethered for more than fifteen minutes. If you need to go shopping, leave the dog at home

Cool down the dog if they exhibit signs of heatstroke. Symptoms of heat stroke include heavy panting, difficulty breathing, loss of energy, drooling, and any obvious weakness or stumbling.

If your dog is starting to show these signs, you can hose them down with cool (but not cold) water. If you do not have a hose, you can put your dog in the shower. As you do this, check the dog’s rectal temperature every 30-60 seconds until the temperature is down to 103.5°F / 39.8°C. The goal is to slowly bring the dog’s temperature down. You should have the dog checked out by a veterinarian.

  • You can also soak rags or wash cloths in cool water.
  • Place these inside of the dog’s thighs.
  • Do not use cold water, ice packs, or iced water.
  • These can actually prevent the dog from cooling down.
  • If you do not have a thermometer or cool water available to you, go directly to the vet.

Walking and Exercising With Your Dog

Go out during the cooler hours. The early morning and late evening hours will be much cooler than the middle of the day. It is recommend to walk your dog during these hours to avoid the worst of the heat.

Walk your dog on soft ground. Asphalt can become dangerously hot during the summer, burning your dog’s paws and increasing their temperature. Instead of walking on sidewalks or blacktop, try to find dirt trails or grassy areas where you can walk your dog.

Carry a collapsible water dish. You will need to give your dog plenty of water while you walk. Plan on taking frequent breaks so that your dog can re-hydrate. Inflatable water bowls fold up easily in a backpack or pocket, and they allow your dog to drink water easily. Pour water from a bottle into the bowl so that your dog can drink at their leisure.

Rest in shady areas. If your dog starts panting heavily or stumbling, they need to rest. These may be signs of oncoming heatstroke. Find a cool, shaded area to let your dog cool off for a few minutes. Do not stop out in middle of hot asphalt or in direct sunlight. These can cause your dog’s temperature to spike.

Watch for signs of overheating. Keep an eye on your dog for signs of heatstroke. If your pet begins to tire or pant heavily, stop in a shady spot and give them some water. If symptoms don’t subside, take them directly home and seek veterinary care.

Crate Training Your Dog

Understand the value of crate training. You might think it cruel to pen a dog up in a crate for hours at a time. But dogs are instinctively den animals, so confined spaces are not as oppressive to them as they are to us. In fact, crate trained dogs will seek out their crates as a source of comfort.

  • Crate training is a useful way to manage your dog’s behavior when he’s unsupervised for extended periods of time.
  • For example, many owners crate their dogs when they go to sleep or leave the house.

Begin crate training young. Although older dogs can be taught to enjoy their crates as well, it’s easier to train a young dog.

  • If your puppy is a large breed, don’t train him in a large crate that you think he’ll grow into.
  • Dogs won’t relieve themselves where they sleep or relax, so you need the crate to be appropriately sized.
  • If you use a crate that’s too large, he might urinate in the far corner of it because he has so much space.

Make the crate an inviting space.[12] Don’t isolate him in the crate immediately by locking the door the first time you get him to enter it. You want him to create a positive association with the crate, so that he enjoys his time in there.

  • When you begin the crate training process, place the crate somewhere the household gathers. The idea is to make the crate part of the social scene rather than a place of isolation.
  • Place a soft blanket and some of your dog’s favorite toys inside the crate.

Encourage him to enter the crate. Once you’ve made the crate an inviting space, use treats to lure him inside. At first, place some outside the door so he can explore the exterior of the crate. Then, place treats just inside the door, so he will poke his head in to retrieve them. As he grows more comfortable, place the treats further and further inside the crate.

  • Do this until your dog enters the crate without hesitation.
  • Always speak in your “happy voice” when acclimating your dog to the crate.

Feed the dog in his crate. Once he’s comfortable entering the crate for treats, reinforce the positive association with mealtime.

  • Place his dog bowl wherever he’s comfortable eating. If he’s still a little anxious, you might have to place it right by the door.
  • As he grows more comfortable over time, place the dog bowl further back into the cage.

 Begin closing the door behind him. With treats and feeding, you’ll find that your dog is growing more acclimated to being in the crate. He still needs to learn how to cope with the door being closed.

  • Begin closing the door at mealtime, when the dog too distracted by his food to notice what’s going on at first.
  • Close the door for very short periods, lengthening the time as the dog grows more comfortable.

Don’t reward the dog for whining. When a puppy whines, it may be adorable and heartbreaking, but when a grown dog whines, it can drive you nuts. If your puppy whines inconsolably, you may have left him inside the crate for too long. However, you cannot release him from the crate until the whining stops. Remember — every reward you give reinforces the dog’s last behavior, which was whining in this case.

  • Instead, release the dog once he’s stopped whining.
  • The next time you close the door on the crate, leave him in for a shorter period of time.

Comfort your dog during long crate sessions. If your puppy cries when he’s alone in the crate, bring the crate into your bedroom at night. Have a tick tock clock or white noise machine to help the puppy get to sleep. Make sure that they have already eliminated outside and don’t need to urinate or defecate.

  • Young puppies should be crated in your room at night so that you can hear them tell you they need to go out in the middle of the night. Otherwise, they will be forced to mess in the crate.

Sources:

How to Exercise a Dog with Arthritis

Introducing Low Impact Exercises

Exercise is part of a healthy and happy dog’s life. However, as dogs age, 65% of them will develop arthritis. As a condition that causes inflammation of the joints, arthritis can make even simple walks and other normal activities painful. You can choose to exercise your dog with low impact workouts that are less painful for their joints.[1]

Identify the right kind of exercise for your arthritic dog. The least pain-inducing exercises for dogs with arthritis are low impact and high resistance exercises. Low impact exercises lessen the weight that is applied to the joints, making them more comfortable for dogs with joint pain. High resistance exercises, on the other hand, are exercises that provide high resistance to the muscles being exercised, making them more developed and larger without stressing the joints.

  • Examples of low impact and high resistance exercises include swimming and walking on an underwater treadmill. In an underwater treadmill exercise, the dog is placed on a treadmill that is enclosed in a glass container that can be filled up with water.

Exercise your dog on an underwater treadmill. Underwater treadmills are a great way to exercise dogs with arthritis dogs, but they are often cost prohibitive for most owners.[2] Ask your vet about local facilities or clinics that offer underwater treadmills or hydrotherapy exercises for dogs. Most large animal clinics or hospitals offer this service.Ideally, you can exercise your dog on an underwater treadmill every day.

  • Start with short walks that last about 10 minutes and gradually increase their duration as your dog gets used to the exercise. As your dog gets stronger, they can walk for longer periods of time.
  • Underwater treadmills have adjustable speeds and have water temperature controls, because heat increases blood circulation, which reduces joint swelling and pain.[3]

Take your dog swimming. Swimming is a great low impact way to exercise your pup.[4]Take your dog to a lake, pond, or dog-friendly pool for a swim. You can let them swim on their own accord or throw a buoyant toy for them to retrieve. [5]

  • If your dog isn’t a strong swimmer, consider purchasing a doggie life vest to help keep them buoyant. You can teach them to swim with or without a doggie life vest.

Go for a gentle walk. Take your pet for a short walk to get them moving. Start off with short walks, and gradually increase their length over time if your dog isn’t in pain. Start off with walks that are 10-15 minutes long once or twice a day. Softer surfaces, like grass or even carpeted floors, are better than rough surfaces like concrete. You also want to walk them on flat areas without any hills.[6]

  • Do not run or jog with your arthritic dog.
  • Avoid taking them on walks in the early morning or at night since colder temperatures can exacerbate joint pain.

Warming Up and Cooling Down Your Dog for Exercise

Warm up your arthritic dog by performing range of motion exercises. Range of motion exercises gently move certain joints, like an elbow or hip, through the joint’s entire range. This range runs from flexion (bent) to extension (straightened out). To perform a range of motion exercise, lay down your dog on their side on a mattress or blanket, with the limb you intend to exercise positioned towards you.[7]

  • With one hand, support the limb you intend to exercise below and above the joint at a natural position so that your dog is comfortable and without pain.
  • Flex the limb as slowly as possible until it reaches a natural flexed position that the dog is comfortable with (stop if the dog feels pain) and hold it in this position for 3 to 5 seconds.
  • After flexing the limb, slowly or gently return it to its original position and extend it all the way outwards. Repeat the gentle flexion and extension exercise 10 to 15 times.[8]

Massage their joints. A gentle joint massage for five to ten minutes every day can help to relieve some of their arthritis pain. Massage helps to keep the joints flexible and warm up muscles prior to exercise. Start by petting the areas around their joints to warm up the tissue. Then, place your hand over the area and start making small, circular motions while gently compressing the muscle. Finish by petting the area again to soothe the nerves.[9]

  • Do not massage joints that are currently aggravated. If your dog winces or seems to be in pain, stop massaging that area immediately.
  • This is also a great way to bond with your dog.

Dry your dog. After exercising your dog on the underwater treadmill or by swimming, thoroughly dry your dog using soft towels so that your dog will not be chilly. Cold temperatures can decrease blood circulation and cause joint pain. If you opted to take them for a walk, be sure to warm them up if you’ve been in damp or cool weather.

Do cool down exercises with your dog. After exercise, your dog’s muscles need to be cooled down. Perform the same range of motion exercises by repeating the same procedures that you performed when warming your dog up.

  • Perform these exercises in a warm area or inside so your dog will be more comfortable.

Provide a warm resting environment for your dog. Warm temperatures can help to increase blood circulation, thereby reducing pain and inflammation. On the other hand, cold temperatures can exacerbate symptoms of arthritis. After you’ve had an opportunity to exercise your pup, make sure they have a warm and comfortable area to rest in.

  • Provide your dog with a thick, soft dog bed to sleep on. There are also heated dog beds that you can purchase for your arthritic dog.

Making Exercise More Comfortable

Help them maintain a healthy weight. Extra weight puts unnecessary stress on your dog’s already damaged joints. By keeping them at a healthy weight, you can help to eliminate this additional source of stress and pain. Because your dog cannot exercise like they would if they didn’t have arthritis, maintaining a healthy diet is your best bet to keep them at a healthy weight.[10]

  • Dogs that are a healthy weight will also have an easier time exercising than will an overweight dog.
  • A healthy diet should provide a balance of protein, carbohydrates, and fats. Avoid feeding your dog table scraps, since human food is often more calorically dense. Limit the number of treats you give your pet.
Exercise on a soft surface, if possible. While this might not always be possible, try to exercise your dog on soft surfaces whenever possible. Soft surfaces, like grass, put less stress on your dog’s joints than hard surfaces, like asphalt.[11]

Give your dog vet-prescribed pain medication. If your dog is in a lot of pain, talk to your vet about what medications might be right for your dog. Your vet will most likely prescribe an NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug) that will help to combat pain and reduce swelling. Pain management medications can make exercise much more comfortable for your dog.[12]

  • These medications are prescription only; do not self-medicate your dog.

Supplement your dog’s diet with vitamin C. Vitamin C has been found to help improve joint mobility in dogs. It can also help prevent further joint damage in some dogs. When dogs are stressed, especially due to physical stress caused by conditions like arthritis, they can be prone to a Vitamin C deficiency.[13]

  • Talk to your vet about Vitamin C supplements to see if they think it would help your dog.[14]

Consider giving your dog additional medications. Certain medications can help prevent further joint damage by maintaining joint health. Glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate both help to repair connective tissue and keep already existing cartilage healthy. Arthritis will degrade your dog’s joints, but these medicines can help to slow this process.[15]

  • Talk to your vet before you give your dog any additional supplements or medications.
  • These medicines will not repair any structural damage caused by arthritis, like torn cartilage or advanced scar tissue. These can only be corrected through surgery.[16]

Warnings

  • Arthritis is a progressive condition. There may come a time when your dog’s condition has progressed to a point where they are in severe pain. They may no longer be able to continue exercising, so speak with your veterinarian when their arthritis reaches an advanced stage.
  • Exercise within your pet’s capabilities. Never over-exert your pet for the sake of exercise.
  • Never let your dog swim without your close supervision.

How to Care for a New Cat

Authored by Pippa Elliott, MRCVS

Bringing home a new cat can be exciting and overwhelming. There is so much to buy and do to get ready. Your new cat may be frightened and confused as she enters a new living space, but you can help to ease her transition by getting everything ready, taking good care of your cat, and considering any special needs she might have before you welcome her into your home for the first time.

Providing for Your New Cat

Purchase supplies for your cat. Before you bring your kitty home, you will need to make sure that you have everything she/he needs to be healthy and happy. Basic supplies that you will need for your cat include:

  • Food and water bowls
  • Food and treats (age appropriate)
  • Litter boxes (one for each cat in your house plus one extra)
  • Litter (fine grain, unscented, clumping litter is best)
  • A collar and identification tag with your cat’s name plus your name and phone number or address
  • A brush
  • Cat toys
  • Cat bed or furniture
  • Scratching post or cardboard scratching blocks
  • Cat carrier
Choose a room in which to keep your cat. It may be best to confine your cat to one room when you first bring them home. This will allow them to adjust to the smells and sounds of their new home without being overwhelmed. Make sure you provide food, water, a hiding place, litter box and toys. After a few days, when your cat appears more confident, you can leave the door open and allow the cat to explore at their own pace.
Set up your cat’s litter boxes. Place the litter boxes somewhere that your cat can access easily. Avoid putting them in high traffic areas or behind closed doors. For example, you could place one litter box in the corner of a room upstairs and one in the corner of a room downstairs. Use an unscented, fine grain litter to fill the litter box to a depth of about 1 – 2 inches. Keep in mind, cats should have some privacy.

Provide food and water. Give your cat some food and fresh water as soon as you bring her home. Place the food and water someplace quiet, so that your new cat will not be disturbed. Avoid placing the food and water in a high traffic areas as this may prevent your cat from eating or drinking when she needs to. Make sure that the food and water are appropriate for the cat’s age (kitten, adult, or senior).

  • Change your cat’s water every day and check it often to make sure that your cat always has enough fresh, clean water.
Give your cat some toys. Cats love to play, so make sure that you provide your cat with some stimulating toys. Get a variety of toys for your cat, such as wands, ball toys, food dispensing toys, and catnip toys. Having several different options for your cat to play with will help keep her active, happy, and stimulated.

Designate places for your cat to sleep. Your cat may decide that she prefers to sleep on the windowsill or in the laundry hamper, but you can encourage your cat to sleep in some designated places by providing her with some special bedding. Place a cat bed or some blankets on a comfortable spot where she will not be disturbed. Good places include a shelf, a rarely used chair, a basket in a corner, or a spot on the floor where the sun shines in through a window.

  • Make sure to wash bedding often to prevent it from getting infested with fleas and/or ticks.

Taking Care of Your Cat

Schedule an initial veterinary appointment. Once you have brought your new cat home, you will need to set up an initial veterinary visit to make sure that she is healthy and get any necessary vaccines. Your veterinarian can also prescribe any necessary medications and help with flea and tick removal and/or prevention if necessary.

  • During your cat’s initial vet visit, ask about spaying or neutering your cat if she/he is not already spayed or neutered. Spaying and neutering are crucial to reducing the number of homeless cats, protecting your cat’s health, and reducing the likelihood of behavior issues.

Develop a feeding schedule. It is better to feed your cat measured portions throughout the day rather than to allow her to free feed. Freed feeding can cause your cat to become overweight, which may result in other health problems. Develop a feeding schedule that works with your schedule. For example, you might decide to feed your cat at 7:00am and then again at 6:00pm. Follow the guidelines on your cat’s food package to determine how much to feed her each day. You will need to know how much your cat weighs to determine this amount, so ask your vet if you are not sure.

  • If you have a kitten between 3 – 6 months, feed her three times per day.
  • If you have a kitten that is 6 – 12 weeks old, feed her four times per day.
  • If you have an adult cat, feed her one large meal or two to three smaller meals per day.
  • Give your cat some treats each day as well. You can give your cat a few treats as a midday snack or use a treat dispensing toy to give your cat a chance to work for her treats. Just be careful not to overdo it on the treats because they can cause your cat to gain weight.

Keep your cat’s litter boxes clean. To help prevent litter box issues, it is important to scoop your cat’s litter boxes every day and give them a deep cleaning once per week as well. To deep clean your cat’s boxes, remove and discard all of the old litter. Put some dish soap and warm water into the boxes and scrub the inside of the boxes with a sponge. Then rinse and dry the boxes before adding new litter.

  • You may need to change the litter in some boxes more than once per week depending on how much and how often it gets used.

Use your cat’s carrier to transport her to and from places. If you need to take your cat somewhere, such as the veterinarian, make sure that you use your cat’s carrier to do so. Cats tend to dislike travel, but keeping your cat in her carrier will help to ensure her safety. Your cat may still complain by yowling while inside the carrier, but she will be much safer than if you allow her to run loose in your car.

  • Place a towel or an old blanket in your cat’s carrier to help her feel more comfortable.

Play with your cat. Spend some time playing with your cat each day in order to develop your relationship with her and help her to stay fit and stimulated. You should aim for 10-15 minutes of playtime with your cat a couple of times per day.

  • Try using an interactive toy to play with your cat such as a laser pointer or wand toy.
Groom your cat as needed. Cats groom themselves for the most part, but your cat will still need to be brushed to remove excess hair and prevent matting. How often you need to brush your cat depends on the type of cat. For example, if your cat has short hair, once per week should be enough. But if your cat has long hair, you should brush her hair every day.[13]

Pet your cat when she is ready. As you see to all of your cat’s other needs, you will also need to make sure that you take time to pet your cat and show her some love. Just make sure that you allow your cat enough time to get used to her new environment and you before you get too affectionate. Your cat may take a while to warm up to you, but after a while she should become more comfortable with approaching you and letting you pet her fur.

  • Be patient if your cat is timid at first. It may take a week or two before your cat is feeling comfortable enough to approach you. Allow your cat to retreat if he is feeling nervous or frightened. Offer some treats and allow your cat to sniff you and your belongings to feel more comfortable.
Keep your cat inside. Outdoor cats are at a much higher risk of getting diseases, parasites, and injuries than indoor cats. To make sure that your cat is as safe as possible, keep her indoors and do not allow her to go outside to roam, even if she wants to go outside.

Considering Special Needs

Make sure that your cat is healthy. When you take your cat for its initial veterinary visit, you will learn if your cat has any health issues that need to be dealt with. For example, some cats have worms that need to be treated with medicine. Follow your veterinarian’s instructions for how to get your cat healthy. Contact your vet if your cat’s health deteriorates or if you notice any new symptoms.

Determine if your new cat has any behavioral issues. If you have taken in an adult cat or a stray, you may have to deal with some behavioral issues. For example, if you get an adult cat that is not yet neutered, he may be have the urge to spray or mark your furniture. You will need to get him neutered as soon as possible to help correct this behavior.

  • Discuss any behavioral issues with your veterinarian and follow their advice for correcting these issues.

Consider your cat’s age. Kittens, adult cats, and senior cats all have different special needs. For example, very young kittens may need help going to the bathroom, while senior cats may need a litter box with low sides to make it easier to get in and out of it.

  • Think about how your cat’s age may require you to do certain things differently or if you will need to provide any sort of special items or care.

References

How to Give Your Large Dog Enough Exercise

Exercise is an important component of a dog’s health and happiness. Dogs are instinctively programmed to “work” through physical activity.[1] How much exercise dogs need depends on different factors, including their size. Larger dogs need more physical activity every day to ward off boredom and frustration, which can lead to destructive behaviors. Exercising your large dog for long enough every day also promotes its overall health.[2] You can give your large dog enough exercise by figuring out its specific physical activity needs and incorporating physical activity throughout the day.

Figuring Out Your Dog’s Exercise Needs

Recognize basic needs for every dog. A walk or two around the neighborhood isn’t usually enough exercise for dogs. Most dogs need 30-60 minutes of exercise every day.[3] Your dog can get this exercises through a variety of outdoor and indoor activities. These might include:

  • Walking
  • Running
  • Swimming
  • Climbing and/ or running up stairs
  • Throwing toys
  • Obstacle courses[4]
Establish how much exercise your large dog needs. The amount of exercise your large dog needs depends in part on its breed. Certain breeds used for hunting or herding will need the most exercise, whereas a short-nosed breed such as a boxer will need less. If your dog is in ill health, speak to its vet about appropriate amounts of exercise.[5]

  • Exercise breeds in hunting, working, or herding groups will need at least 30 minutes of vigorous exercise and 1-2 hours of activity every day. Breeds in this group include Labrador retrievers, hounds, collies and shepherds. Other dogs that need this much exercise are pointers and spaniels.[6]
  • Be aware that some large dog breeds won’t need much exercise. Aim to get the following breeds 30-60 minutes of activity each day: bulldogs, bull mastiffs, Great Danes, greyhounds, and Old English sheepdogs. In some cases, your dog’s personality and ability may warrant more or less.
  • Recognize that it can be difficult to gauge how much exercise mixed breeds need. If you have an idea of what heritage your dog has, follow exercise guidelines for that breed. If you don’t, consider asking your vet what breed the dog may be and adjust your exercise program accordingly.
Let your dog guide you. Dogs are very sensitive animals and can provide signals about their needs. This is true for exercise, too. Paying attention to your dog’s behavior can also inform you about if it needs more exercise or activity or is content to get some rest.[7] Some signs your dog may want more exercise include:

  • Restlessness
  • Pacing around
  • Racing through the house[8]
  • Rough play
  • Excited nipping or biting
  • Digging
  • Scratching
  • Destructive chewing

Incorporating Physical Activity Throughout the Day

Schedule daily exercise and activity. Dogs require physical activity as a result of their evolutionary development as pack and work animals.[9] Your large dog may need up to 2 ½ hours of exercise and activity every day, which can be a lot if you have a busy schedule. Having a set daily schedule for exercising can ensure that your dog gets enough physical activity to maintain its health and happiness. The routine helps your dog anticipate it and may minimize unwanted behaviors.[10]

  • Fix a specific time each day to get 30 minutes of vigorous activity with your large dog. For example, you could schedule a 30-minute run together in the mornings before work or school. If you’re not a runner, consider taking your dog to the yard, a field, or dog park for 30 minutes. Do an activity that is vigorous for your dog but easy on you such as fetching or blowing bubbles specifically designed for dogs.[11]
  • Aim for a long walk of about an hour in addition to the vigorous exercise. You can also break this into two 30-minute walks.
  • Adjust your dog’s exercise routine as necessary. For example, if you have an early meeting, see if you can sneak out to run the dog at lunch.
Do activities your dog—and you— enjoy. Every dog has a personality. You may recognize that your dog plays harder or is happier after certain types of exercise. You may enjoy these, too. Incorporate activities that you and your dog love as much as you are able. This can make it easier to ensure your large dog gets enough exercise and can strengthen your bond.[12]

  • Set aside at least one day to do an activity you and your dog both love but may not be possible every day. For example, if you have work or school, you may have off weekends. On a Saturday or Sunday, you can let your dog run as you ride your bike or go for a nature hike.
Follow your dog on walks. Regular walks are important to a dog’s health and happiness. One way to make them fun is going for brisk walks where you follow your dog on a lead or leash. This can fulfill your dog’s need for exercise and to travel and explore.[13]

  • Follow your large dog for a brisk 30-40 minute walk at least once a day and ideally twice. This can ensure your dog’s gets enough exercise and brain releases feel-good hormones.
  • Allow your dog to sniff around and decide where to go as long as it is not pulling on the leash. Doing so may promote dominance and bad leash manners. Guide the dog with verbal commands if it starts to pull at the leash. A gentle “This way, Spot” gives your dog the sense that it can explore while maintaining your authority.
Try “doggy and me” exercises. If you’re very active physically, the easiest way to give your large dog enough exercise is doing activities together. This can ensure that both you and your dog stay fit and happy. Some exercises you can do together include:[14]

  • Running
  • Inline skating
  • Bicycling
  • Hiking[15]
  • Swimming[16]
  • Jumping over obstacles[17]
Take your dog to the park. Many areas have designated dog parks that allow off-leash activity for dogs. This can be a great way for your large dog to get its daily recommended exercise as well as romp around with other dogs.[18]

  • Watch your dog while you’re at the park, which can cue you into when your dog is tired. This is also important because not all dogs play nicely with one another.
Stimulate indoor exercise. If the weather is extremely cold or hot, it may not be safe for your dog to exercise outside.[19] You may be injured and unable to go outside. Even if outdoor exercise isn’t an option, you can ensure your large dog gets enough activity every day with indoor activities. The following activities can provide your large dog its recommended daily exercise:[20]

  • Running up the stairs with your dog
  • Playing fetch
  • Hiding treats around the house
  • Playing keep away
  • Kicking around dog exercise balls[21]
  • Setting up an obstacle course
Provide toys while you’re gone. If you work or attend school, you may need to leave your dog at home. Your dog will still need activity during this time. Leaving toys for your large dog can help it get enough exercise. They can also provide entertainment until you get home. Consider providing the following toys to your dog:[22]

  • Hard rubber toys for chewing and carrying around
  • Rope toys
  • Balls
  • “Busy box” toys with hiding places for snacks
  • Soft, stuffed and/or squeaky toys
  • Dirty laundry that smells like you
Consider doggy-day care or a walker. You may find that your dog needs more exercise that your schedule permits. If this is the case, consider taking your dog to doggy day care or hiring a professional dog walker. These can fill in where you can’t. A day care or walker will exercise both your dog’s body and mind.[23]

  • Recognize your dog should come home worn out and happy from a day care or dog walker.

Sources:

 

  1. http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/exercise-dogs
  2. http://www.petmd.com/dog/wellness/evr_dg_exercising_with_your_dog101
  3. http://dogtime.com/dog-health/fitness/49-exercise-needs
  4. https://www.cesarsway.com/dog-training/toys-and-play/ways-to-exercise-your-dog-indoors
  5. http://www.petmd.com/dog/wellness/evr_dg_exercising_with_your_dog101#
  6. http://dogtime.com/dog-health/general/12204-20-dogs-that-need-lots-of-exercise
  7. http://www.petmd.com/dog/wellness/evr_dg_exercising_with_your_dog101#
  8. http://www.canidae.com/blog/2013/10/telltale-signs-your-dog-needs-more-exercise/
  9. http://moderndogmagazine.com/articles/healthy-affection-vs-obsession/760
  10. http://dogtime.com/dog-health/fitness/49-exercise-needs
  11. http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/exercise-dogs?page=2#2
  12. http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/exercise-dogs?page=2#2
  13. http://www.caninemind.co.uk/dogsneeds.html
  14. http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/exercise-dogs?page=3
  15. http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/exercise-dogs?page=4
  16. http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/exercise-dogs?page=5
  17. http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/exercise-dogs?page=6
  18. http://dogtime.com/dog-health/fitness/49-exercise-needs
  19. http://dogtime.com/dog-health/fitness/49-exercise-needs
  20. https://www.cesarsway.com/dog-training/toys-and-play/ways-to-exercise-your-dog-indoors
  21. http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/exercise-dogs?page=6
  22. http://www.caninejournal.com/why-dogs-eat-grass/
  23.  http://dogtime.com/dog-health/fitness/49-exercise-needs

 

Teaching “Sit”, “Lie Down”, “Wait”, and “Stand”

Teaching the “Sit”

Get your dog into a standing position. The purpose of the “sit” is get your dog to transition from standing to sitting, not just continue sitting. Walk into your dog or step away from him to get him into a standing position.
Position yourself in his line of sight. Stand directly in front of the dog so that his attention is focused on you. Let him see that you have a treat in your hand.

Focus the dog’s attention on the treat. Begin with the treat held down at your side. Raise that hand in front of the dog’s nose to let him get the scent, then to above his head level.

  • When you hold the treat above the dog’s head, most dogs will naturally sit to get a better view of it.

Give him an immediate treat and praise. Follow the routine of clicker-treat/praise or just treat and praise. Say “good sit” when he’s performing the behavior you are practicing. He may be slow at first, but more treats and praise will speed up his response.

  • Make sure that you do not praise him until his butt touches the ground. If you praise halfway through the sit, the dog will think that is what you want.
  • Also, make sure that you do not praise him for getting back up, or you will get that behavior instead of the sit.

If your dog does not sit with the treat technique, you can use your leash and collar. Stand next to the dog, facing the same direction as him. Place a little backward pressure on the collar to encourage a sit.

  • You may even need to encourage the sit by adding a little gentle scoop behind the dog’s hind legs. Gently lean the dog backward with the help of the collar while doing this.
  • As soon as he sits, give him immediate praise and reward.

Don’t repeat the command. You want the dog to respond on the first utterance, not the second, third, or fourth. If the dog does not perform the behavior within 2 seconds of your command, reinforce the command with the help of your leash.

  • When you begin training a dog, never give a command that you are not in a position to reinforce. Otherwise, you risk training the dog to ignore you because there is no follow through from your end and the commands have no meaning.
  • Create a positive meaning for the dog with praise and consistency.[7]

Praise natural sitting behavior. Look for times throughout the day when your dog just sits on his own. Praise that behavior, and pretty soon you’ll have a dog that sits for attention instead of jumping or barking at you.

Teaching Your Dog to Lie Down

Get your dog’s attention. Get some food treats or a toy and find your dog. Hold the toy or treat in view so he focuses on you.

Use the treat or toy to encourage your dog to lie down. Do this by moving the toy or treat onto the ground in front of the dog, between his front legs. His head should follow it, and his body should follow shortly thereafter.

Give immediate praise. When the dog’s stomach is on the ground, lavish him with praise and give him the treat or toy. Be accurate with your praise, too. If you praise him halfway down or up, that is the behavior you will get.

Increase your distance. Once he’s learned the behavior with the promise of a treat below him, move a little farther away. The hand signal for “down” will become your flat hand — palm down — moving in a downward direction from in front of your waist to your side.

  • As the dog gets more consistent with the “down” behavior, add a verbal “down” or “lie down” command.
  • Always praise him immediately when his belly is on the ground.
  • Dogs read body language well and learn hand signals quite quickly.

Lengthen the “down.” As he gets more reliable with “down,” pause a few seconds before praising and treating to encourage him to hold the position.

  • If he pops up to get the treat, do not give it to him, or you will be rewarding the last behavior he did before the treat.
  • Just start again, and the dog will understand that you want him all the way down on the ground, as long as you are consistent.

Don’t lean over your dog. Once your dog has caught onto the command, stand up straight when giving it. If you loom over him, you’ll have a dog that only lays down when you are leaning over him. You want to work on being able to get your dog to lie down from across the room, eventually.

Training Your Dog to “Wait” at Doorways

Begin doorway “wait”-training early. Teaching a dog to respect the threshold is important. You do not want a dog that runs out the door every time it opens — that could be dangerous for him. Doorway training doesn’t need to happen every single time you go through a doorway. But you should make the most of your training opportunities early in your puppy’s life.

Place the dog on a leash. You should have him on a short leash that allows you to change his direction from a close distance.

Walk to the door. Bring the dog along with you on his leash.

Give a “wait” command before stepping through. If your dog moves to follow you when you step through the door, use the leash to stop his forward movement. Try again.

Praise him when he waits. When he realizes that you want him to stay in the door instead of walking through it with you, lavish him with praise and rewards for the “good wait.”

Teach him to sit in the threshold. If the door is closed, you can even teach your dog to sit as soon as you place your hand on the doorknob. He’ll then wait while the door is opened, and not cross the threshold until you release him. This training should be done on leash at the beginning, for his safety.

Give a separate command to encourage him through the doorway. You might use a “come” or a “free.” Whatever command you use, it should be the only thing that allows your dog to exit your home.

Increase the distance. Practice leaving the dog at the threshold and do something on the other side. You might get the mail or take out the trash before you return and praise him. The idea is that you do not always call him across the threshold to meet you. You can also come back to him.

Teaching the “Stand”

Understand the value of the “stand” command. The value of the “sit” and “wait” seem obvious, but you may not understand at first why the “stand” is an important skill to teach your dog. You’ll won’t use the “stand” every day, but you’ll need it throughout the dog’s life. For example, a dog who can stay calmly in a “stand” is the ideal patient at a vet clinic or client at a groomer’s.

Prepare for the training session. Grab his favorite toy or prepare a handful of treats to both focus your dog’s attention and reward him for learning the command. Put the dog in a starting “down” or “lie down” position when working with the “stand” command. He should move from lying down to standing up to get his toy or treats.

Focus the dog’s attention. You want to coax him into the standing position by having him follow the toy or treat. Hold the toy or treat in front of his face, at nose height.

  • If he sits, thinking that will earn him a reward, try again, but with the treat or toy slightly lower.

Encourage the dog to follow your hand. Flatten your hand with your palm down. If you’re using a treat, hold it with your thumb against your palm. Start with your hand in front of his nose and move it away a few inches. The idea is that the dog will stand up while following your hand.

  • You may need to use your other hand to encourage him from underneath his hips to get the idea at first.

Give immediate praise. As soon as he reaches the standing position, praise and treat. Although you haven’t yet started using the verbal “stand” command, you can use it in your praise: “good stand!”

Add the verbal “stand” command. At first, you will work only on getting your dog to stand by following the hand that holds his toy or treat. When he’s mastered that concept, begin incorporating the “stand” command into the training sessions.

Combine the “stand” with other commands. There are many ways to combine commands. After getting your dog to “stand,” you might add a “wait” or “stay” command if you want the dog to stand for longer periods of time. You can also follow with a “sit” or “down” to do some “doggy drills,” and gradually increase the distance between you and the dog. Eventually, you’ll have your dog performing these commands from across the room.